Info on Paris
(designed for my module students)

Events:  May 2011  | Paris Blogs |  Paris Webliography |  Paris/France from Wikipedia  |  Paris Bibliography

Info/Advice/Blogs:


Background Reading on the Web:  

Americans in Paris
 
English language book stores in Paris


Special Events for May 2011  


Places to Visit


Paris Blogs

A Paris Webliography

General pages about Paris and French Culture


General Travel Tips



Eating in Paris

PARIS WINE BARS

Juveniles 47 rue de Richelieu, 1er, M° Pyramides, tel: 01 42 97 46 49, closed Sun. Opened in 1985 by the Johnston Williamson team — who also run the famous Willi’s Wine Bar just around the corner — Juveniles is a friendly, welcoming place with an elegant, warm decor, an innovative kitchen, and one of the best Beaujolais Nouveau parties in town. It’s also an excellent address, if you want to try some superb wines from Australia, Spain and South America.

Willi’s Wine Bar 13 rue des Petits Champs, 1er, M° Bourse, tel: 01 42 61 05 09, closed Sun. A sophisticated clientele, an intimate ambiance and a hearty dining room have made Willi’s one of the most popular wine bars in Paris and a great place to try difficult-to-find regional wines, such as the excellent dark Collioure rosé which comes from the border near Cataluña, or a Jurançon moelleux from near the Swiss frontier. The attractive dining room offers farm-raised fare and a great selection of classic English cheeses. There’s also a rich choice of sherries and digestifs to start and end the meal.

Aux Bons Crus 7 rue des Petits Champs, 1er, M° Bourse, tel: 01 42 60 06 45, open noon to 11pm, closed Sat nights and Sun. This appealing wine bar dates back to the turn of the century and has retained much of its old-world feel complete with ancient monte-charge, wine kegs and old oak bar. Well-priced, nourishing fare such as a good navarin d’agneau aux petits legumes and cuisse de canard from the Landes, make up for the inexpensive yet surprisingly limited wine list. The back room, with its low ceiling and large windows overlooking the Palais Royal, has a pleasing ambiance, particularly on a gray winter’s day, and makes a perfect place for that secret rendez-vous.

Le Rubis 10 rue Marché St-Honoré, 1er, M° Tuileries, tel: 01 42 61 03 34, open noon to 10:30pm, closed Sat evenings and Sun. This pocket-sized corner wine bar just off the Tuileries is one of the best-known and best loved in Paris, with an extensive wine list mainly centered around the Beaujolais and Loire regions. Despite its rustic, timeworn interior, it attracts heavy-weight businessmen and lawyers at lunch, and well-heeled wine-lovers at night. Soak up the atmosphere over a bottle of Cheverny and a plate of homemade rillettes.

Taverne Henri IV, 13 pl du Pont-Neuf, 1er, M° Pont Neuf, tel: 01 43 54 27 90, open noon to 10pm, closed Sat from 4pm & Sun. Tucked between the picturesque place Dauphine and the Pont Neuf, this is one of the best-known and most respected wine bars in Paris and is celebrating its 50th anniversary this year. The rustic furniture and fittings and the diplomas that proudly hang above the bar create a clubby, “satisfied” feel. It offers a selection of wines from the Beaujolais and Loire that are bottled by the bar owners themselves.

La Tartine 24 rue de Rivoli, 4e, M° St-Paul, tel: 01 42 72 76 85, open 9am to 10:30pm, closed Tue. Located in the heart of the Marais, La Tartine always attracts a pleasing mix of elderly regulars, bohos, gays and lesbians and the nicotine-colored interior, featuring large mirrors, battered fixtures and molded ceilings is right out of “between-wars Paris.” The emphasis is on wines from the Beaujolais and Bordeaux regions, tartines or open-faced sandwiches that give the bar its name, and cigarettes.

L’Lutétia 33 quai de Bourbon, 4e, M° Hôtel de Ville, tel: 01 43 54 11 71, closed Sun evenings & Mon. A handy address to have in a particularly chic part of town, the terrace of this wine bar and bistrot is one of the most popular on the island thanks to its views onto the river and the Hôtel de Ville. There is a large, if sometimes pricey, selection of wines, notably from the Bordeaux and the Loire regions.

Cave La Bourgogne 144 rue Mouffetard, 5e, M° Censier-Daubenton, tel: 01 43 36 20 53, closed Sun & Mon. Set in a tranquil and beautiful square at the foot of the bustling markets of the rue Mouffetard, this warm and inviting establishment boasts an old zinc bar, mosaic floor and a terrace complete with gas heaters to take the nip out of the air. As the name suggests, it specializes in wines from the Burgundy region and also offers a hearty selection of food, including cheese and cold-cut platters and several well-priced menus.

Bistro des Augustins 39 quai des Grands Augustins, 6e, M° St-Michel, tel: 01 43 54 45 75, open daily, noon-midnight. The premises of this little wine bar date back to the turn of the century, and look like it, with an appealing, retro mustiness, marble-topped bar, and menu specials chalked up on the board. It attracts a young branché crowd of students, media people and arty tourists. The selection of wines is limited but well-chosen, coming mainly from small producers all over France. Prices are as low as the lighting.

Le Sancerre 22 av Rapp, 7e, M° Alma-Marceau, tel: 01 45 51 75 91, closed Sun. With its large mural of the village of Sancerre and regulars perched at the bar, this pleasant establishment has been a neighborhood favorite for years. As the name suggests the star of the show is wine from the famous village. A further oyster bar offers a nice opportunity for the white Sancerre to shine, but don’t overlook the lesser-known red Sancerre, a perfect accompaniment to the house specialties: an excellent, if highly pungent, andouillette and a truly superb cèpes omelet.

Café du Passage 12 rue de Charonne, 11e, M° Bastille, tel: 01 49 29 97 64, open daily. One of the most comfortable wine bars in the Bastille district, with a cozy back room that is often overlooked, and a terrace that affords some great people watching. As well as boasting an impressive collection of wine that can also be bought by the bottle, the bar maintains an interesting calendar of tastings.


Paris and France  (from Wikipedia and other sources)




A Paris Bibliography 

(my personal favorites are marked with an *)

On Paris in General
[including guide books, etc.]



History, Literary Criticism, Memoir, Travel Writing:
Paris and Americans in Paris


Fiction:
Paris and Americans in Paris

The Visual and Musical Arts:
Paris and Americans in Paris



Paris on Film
and
Americans in Paris on Film


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Paris Architecture:  A Quick Survey

It's worth pointing out that very few buildings (especially churches) were built in one particular architectural style. These massive, expensive structures often took centuries to complete, during which time tastes would change and plans would be altered.

Ancient Roman (125 B.C.-A.D. 450)

France was Rome's first transalpine conquest, and the legions of Julius Caesar quickly subdued the Celtic tribes across France, converting it into Roman Gaul and importing Roman building concepts. Except for the Parvis Archaeological Excavations of the Romanized village of Lutèce (later renamed after its native Parisii tribe of Celtic Gauls), very little remains in Paris. These excavations are under place du Parvis in front of Notre-Dame. Musée de Cluny, a medieval monastery, was built on top of a Roman baths complex, remnants of which are still visible on the grounds outside and in the huge preserved frigidarium (the cold-water bath), which is now a room of the museum.

Romanesque (800-1100)

The Romanesque style took its inspiration from ancient Rome (hence the name). Early Christians in Italy had adapted the basilica (ancient Roman law-court buildings) to become churches. Few examples of the Romanesque style remain in Paris, however, with most churches having been rebuilt in later eras.

The best remaining example of this style is on the Left Bank at the church of St-Germain-des-Prés. The overall building is Romanesque, including the fine sculpted column capitals near the entrance of the left aisle; only the far left corner is original, the others are copies.

Gothic (1100-1500)

By the 12th century, engineering developments freed church architecture from the heavy, thick walls of Romanesque structures and allowed ceilings to soar, walls to thin, and windows to proliferate. Gothic interiors enticed churchgoers' gazes upward to high ceilings filled with light. Graceful buttresses and spires soared above town centers.

The best examples in and around Paris of the Gothic are: Basilique St-Denis (1140-44), the world's first Gothic cathedral in a Paris suburb; Cathédrale de Chartres (1194-1220), a Gothic masterpiece with some 150 glorious stained-glass windows; and, of course, Cathédrale de Notre-Dame (1163-1250), which possesses pinnacled flying buttresses, a trio of France's best rose windows, good portal carvings, a choir screen of deeply carved reliefs, and spiffy gargoyles.

Renaissance (1500-1630)

In architecture, the Renaissance style stressed proportion, order, classical inspiration, and precision to create unified, balanced structures.

The best examples are: Hôtel Carnavalet (1544), a Renaissance mansion, the only 16th-century hotel left in Paris; and Place des Vosges (1605), a square is lined by Renaissance mansions rising above a lovely arcaded corridor that wraps all the way around.

Classicism & Rococo (1630-1800)

During the reign of Louis XIV, art and architecture were subservient to political ends. Buildings were grandiose and severely ordered on the Versailles model. Opulence was saved for interior decoration, which increasingly (especially 1715-50, after the death of Louis XIV) became an excessively detailed and self-indulgent rococo (rocaille in French).

Rococo tastes didn't last long, though, and soon a neoclassical movement was raising structures, such as Paris's Panthéon (1758), which were even more strictly based on ancient models.

The best examples include: Palais du Louvre (1650-70), a collaborative classical masterpiece, designed as a palace with Le Vau (1612-70) as its chief architect, along with collaborators such as François Mansart (1598-1666); Versailles (1669-85), Europe's grandest palace, the Divine Monarchy writ as a statement of fussily decorative, politically charged classical architecture, though the interior was redecorated in more flamboyant styles; and the Panthéon (1758), a Left Bank perfect example of the strict neoclassical style.

The 19th Century

Architectural styles in 19th-century Paris were eclectic, beginning in a severe classical mode and ending with an identity crisis torn between Industrial Age technology and Art Nouveau organic.

Identifiable styles include the neoclassical First Empire with its strong lines often accented with a simple curve -- the rage during Napoleon's reign; and Second Empire, which occurred during Napoleon III's reign, a reinterpretation of classicism in an ornate mood. During this period Paris became a city of wide boulevards, courtesy of Baron Georges-Eugène Haussmann (1809-91), commissioned by Napoleon III in 1852 to redesign the city. Haussmann lined the boulevards with simple, six-story apartment blocks, such as elongated 18th-century town houses with continuous balconies wrapping around the third and sixth floors and mansard roofs with dormer windows.

The Third Republic expositions in 1878, 1889, and 1900 used the engineering prowess of the Industrial Revolution to produce such Parisian monuments as the Tour Eiffel and Sacré-Coeur.

Art Nouveau architects and decorators rebelled against the Third Republic era of mass production by creating asymmetrical, curvaceous designs based on organic inspiration (plants and flowers) in such mediums as wrought iron, stained glass, and tile.

The best examples are the Arc de Triomphe (1836), Napoleon's oversize imitation of a Roman triumphal arch, the ultimate paean to the classic era; Tour Eiffel (1889), which Gustave Eiffel (1832-1923), slapped together to form the world's tallest structure at 320m (1,050-ft.); and Métro station entrances.

The 20th Century

France commissioned some ambitious architectural projects in the last century, most of them the grand projets of the late François Mitterrand. The majority were considered controversial or even offensive when completed.

At Centre Pompidou (1977), Britisher Richard Rogers (b. 1933) and Italian Renzo Piano (b. 1937) turned architecture inside out -- literally -- to craft Paris's eye-popping modern-art museum, with exposed pipes, steel supports, and plastic-tube escalators wrapping around the exterior; Louvre's glass pyramids (1989), were created by Chinese-American architect I. M. Pei (b. 1917); Opéra Bastille (1989), is a curvaceous, dark glass mound of space designed by Canadian Carlos Ott.


Art in Paris:  A Quick Survey


Gothic (1100-1400)

Almost all artistic expression in medieval France was church-related. Paris retains almost no art from the Classical or Romanesque eras, but much remains from the medieval Gothic era, when artists created sculpture and stained glass for churches.

Outstanding examples include: the Cathédrale de Chartres (1194-1220), which is a day trip from Paris and boasts magnificent sculpture and some of the best stained glass in Europe; the Cathédrale de Notre-Dame (1163-1250), whose Gothic high points are the sculpture on the facade, an interior choir screen lined with deep-relief carvings, and three rose windows filled with stained glass; and the tiny chapel of Sainte-Chapelle (1240-50), adorned with the finest stained glass in the world.

The Renaissance (1400-1600)

Humanist thinkers rediscovered the wisdom of the ancients, while artists strove for greater naturalism, using newly developed techniques such as linear perspective to achieve new heights of realism.

Aside from collecting Italian art, the French had little to do with the Renaissance, which started in Italy and was quickly picked up in Germany and the Low Countries. France owes many of its early Renaissance treasures to François I, who imported art (paintings by Raphael and Titian) and artists (Leonardo da Vinci). Henri II's Florentine wife, Catherine de Médici, also collected 16th-century Italian masterpieces.

The Baroque (1600-1800)

At first reaffirming Renaissance spirituality, the true baroque later exploded into dynamic fury, movement, color, and figures -- that are well-balanced but in such cluttered abundance as to appear untamed. Rococo is this later baroque art gone awry, frothy, and chaotic.

Significant practitioners of the baroque with examples in the Louvre include: Nicolas Poussin (1594-1665), the most classical French painter, who created mythological scenes; Antoine Watteau (1684-1721), who indulged in the wild, untamed complexity of the rococo; François Boucher (1703-70), Louis XV's rococo court painter; and Jean-Honoré Fragonard (1732-1806), Boucher's student and the master of rococo.

Neoclassical & Romantic(1770-1890)

As the baroque got excessive, the rococo got cute, and the somber Counter-Reformation got serious about the limits on religious art, several artists looked for relief to the ancients. This gave rise to a neoclassical artistic style that emphasized symmetry, austerity, clean lines, and classical themes.

The romantics, on the other hand, felt that both the ancients and the Renaissance had gotten it wrong and that the Middle Ages was the place to be. They idealized romantic tales of chivalry and the nobility of peasantry.

Some great artists and movements of the era, all with examples in the Louvre, include: Jean Ingres (1780-1867), who became a defender of the neoclassicists and the Royal French Academy and opposed the romantics; Theodore Géricault (1791-1824), one of the great early romantics, who painted The Raft of the Medusa (1819), which served as a model for the movement; and Eugène Delacroix (1798-1863), whose Liberty Leading the People (1830) was painted in the romantic style.

Impressionism (1870-1920)

Seeking to capture the impression light made as it reflected off objects, the Impressionists adopted a free, open style; deceptively loose compositions; swift, visible brushwork; and often light colors. For subject matter, they turned to landscapes and scenes of modern life. You'll find some of the best examples of their works in the Musée d'Orsay.

Impressionist greats include: Edouard Manet (1832-83), whose groundbreaking Picnic on the Grass (1863) and Olympia (1863) helped inspire the movement with their harsh realism, visible brushstrokes, and thick outlines; Claude Monet (1840-1926), who launched the movement officially in an 1874 exhibition in which he exhibited his Turner-inspired Impression, Sunrise (1874), now in the Musée Marmottan; Pierre-Auguste Renoir (1841-1919), known for his figures' ivory skin and chubby pink cheeks; Edgar Degas (1834-1917), an accomplished painter, sculptor, and draftsman -- his pastels of dancers and bathers are particularly memorable; and Auguste Rodin (1840-1917), the greatest Impressionist-era sculptor, who crafted remarkably expressive bronzes. The Musée Rodin, his former Paris studio, contains, among other works, his Burghers of Calais (1886), The Kiss (1886-98), and The Thinker (1880).

Post-Impressionism (1880-1930)

The smaller movements or styles of Impressionism are usually lumped together as "post-Impressionism." Again, you'll find the best examples of their works at the Musée d'Orsay, though you'll find pieces by Matisse, Chagall, and the cubists, including Picasso, in the Centre Pompidou.

Important post-Impressionists include: Paul Cézanne (1839-1906), who adopted the short brushstrokes, love of landscape, and light color palette of his Impressionist friends; Paul Gauguin (1848-1903), who developed synthetism (black outlines around solid colors); Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec (1864-1901), who created paintings and posters of wispy, fluid lines anticipating Art Nouveau and often depicting the bohemian life of Paris's dance halls and cafes; Vincent van Gogh (1853-90), who combined divisionism, synthetism, and a touch of Japanese influence, and painted with thick, short strokes; Henri Matisse (1869-1954), who created fauvism (a critic described those who used the style as fauves, meaning "wild beasts"); and Pablo Picasso (1881-1973), a Málaga-born artist who painted objects from all points of view at once, rather than using such optical tricks as perspective to fool viewers into seeing three dimensions. The fractured result was cubism. You can see art from all of his periods at the Musée Picasso in the Marais.



from 

TAKE PARIS PERSONALLY, YOUR GUIDE TO DISCOVERING QUINTESSENTIAL PARIS, 3rd. edition  --  Sally Peabody

Shopping The Paris Markets:  Top Picks for Marché Volants and Market Streets

Why shop the markets of Paris?    First, they are incredibly enjoyable, quintessentially Parisian experiences!   You can shop like a local for the freshest foods and find much, much more, besides.    You’ll often encounter certified artisans who love their wares and who love to talk about them— that is, if they aren’t too busy servicing other customers.    Plus, the people-watching can’t be beat.

You’ll find great buys on wares like pashima or other beautiful scarves and shawls, leather goods, and provencal textiles.   You can purchase the finest fresh ingredients for memorable meals or picnics, or buy a range of delicious food gifts for the gourmets at home. 

Paris markets vary in size, scope, ambience and quality— and virtually all of them provide a sumptuous slice of neighborhood life.
(Note that this chapter does not cover the specialty markets like the Bird Market, the Flower market, the Flea Markets, and the Stamp Market.  These will be referenced in the chapters covering shopping and walks in the various quartiers.)

First, a couple of definitions: a “Marché Volant” is a “temporary” market that sets up along an appointed street or boulevard on one, two, or even three days each week.  (Never on Mondays.)   These can be a block or several blocks in length, with two or three aisles of vendors.   A “Market Street”, on the other hand, generally refers to an entire street featuring a permanent collection of food shops, along with other types of shops (such as tailors or cleaners) that are essential to everyday life.   Shops along market streets often augment their indoor sales areas with stalls set up outside the shops.   Every quartier  of Paris has at least one such market street--- and usually a good marché volant too.

What can you buy at such markets?

How and when to find these Marché Volants and permanent Market Streets?

Marché volants generally set up in one specified location, usually along a major boulevard and near a Metro station.  Vendors don’t tend to vary very much from week to week, and indeed many will have had their stalls for years.   Market hours are strictly limited, typically running from earlier morning to early afternoon.   Shops on the permanent “Market Streets” are generally open all day (except Mondays and Sunday afternoons/evenings, when many of the smaller shops close).

Savvy Shopping  in the Markets

Vendors take cash only, with the rare exception that credit cards are accepted by some of those who sell more expensive items (for example, foie gras).   However, you will likely need a credit card with a European chip to work in the hand-held terminals used in the markets.  Best to bring cash!  Unless you know the market well enough to have developed a repertoire of favorite vendors, it would be wise to walk its whole length, both to look for inspiration as well as to pinpoint the best- quality items at the best prices.  Bring an expandable bag in which to consolidate all those unexpected treasures, since you will probably buy more than you thought you would.   And please remember that unless a sign says “service libre”, you do not pick out your own fruits and vegetables or other foods.    Request what you would like to buy, and the vendor will compile your purchase.   Note: In crowded markets keep an eye on your wallets--- pickpocketing is not uncommon.
Examples of Excellent Marché Volants:

Top quality and comprehensive

It’s easy to combine visits on Sundays to both Richard Lenoir and the Place D’Aligre markets.  The Place d’Aligre is located approximately ten minutes walk from the Place de la Bastille (Metro: Ledru Rollin).   See the description below.

Reasonably comprehensive, Neighborhood Markets

3.  Marchés Biologique (Organic Markets)

The Batignolles Biologique Market, 17  éme, is on Saturdays along Boulevard de Batignolles.  This is well attended by neighborhood residents and shoppers from around the city who care about organic foods.  This market has a friendly, informal ambience. Metro: Rome or Place de Clichy.

The Raspail market is the Sunday Marché Biologique in St. Germain.  Upscale, large, very well attended (a place to see and to be seen bien sur),  draws shoppers from around the city.   Metro: Sevres/Babylone.

4.  Souk-like atmosphere, multi-cultural, a little bit of everything!

Nearest Metro:  Ledru Rollin or Faidherbe Chaligny

  Sally’s Selected “Worth-a-Visit” (Permanent) Market Streets

Market streets generally run for several blocks and include various traiteurs, boulangeries, fish markets, charcuteries, florists, fromageries, patisseries, chocolatiers, cafés, small restaurants, and wine stores—as well as useful shops selling non-food items.  The shops will be open every day except Mondays, and are generally closed on Sunday afternoons.

Notable Market Streets are:

rue de Seine/rue de Buci, St. Germain des Pres, 6  ème.  Go to **Gerard Mulot: 76 rue de Seine, for superb Patissèrie, and to *Le Dernier Goutte for wines of the French Southwest—6 rue Bourbon-le-Chateau.  (The Dernier Goutte offers excellent wine tasting options for free on Saturdays, approx. 11:30-6:30.) This area sports some nice chocolate shops including Cacao et Chocolat on Buci, and you can buy fabulous and unusual oils at the tiny Huilerie LeBlanc, 6 rue JacobMetro: St. Germain des Prés.



Paris Historical Subdivision 01 - Introduction


Paris' ile de la Cité is the very reason this city exists where it does today. In the days of early man, the river flowing around us was much wider, a formidable swath of water that was a barrier to any hoping to cross it; in all the region the river was no narrower than in the straits to each side of this island. As a crossroads between the beaten path that developed there and the merchant highway that became the river to the region's first Celtic tribes, the ile de la Cité became a village inhabited by one of these, the Parisii. In them and their name, meaning "river boat" you have the origins of this city's name.

The Romans who conquered the above tribe to claim these lands from 52BC preferred the Left Bank as their place of habitation, but the ile de la Cite would be occupied once again from the fourth century when it became a naturally moated fort against the attacks of wesward-migrating Germanic tribes. The victorious leader of these, Clovis, would make Paris his capital and the island's roman residences his own. All of France's rulers from then until the mid-fourteenth century would have their palaces to the island's western end.

As for the rest of the island, if its centre had since even its origins had been a town proper and marketplace, its eastern end, beginning with a Roman temple to Jupiter, was concecrated to religion. Beginning with a third-century chapel dedicated to Saint-Etienne, the land to the east of today's petit-pont was filled with monestaries, churches and chapels, and by the twelfth century had become a walled village in itself called the "cloitre Notre-Dame". The island itself was connected to the mainland through two bridges: the first and most-used was the Petit-Pont spanning the southern Seine to the Rive Gauche, and the second, built over the centuries in two locations, was the Grand-Pont, a much longer connection to the rive droite.

In the mid fourteenth century the crown abandoned the island's palaces(island, abandon)) for the newer Louvre castle, leaving these to the royal Judicial and administative services. The next major changes here would be the transformations wrought by a certain Baron Haussmann (of who you will hear much of in these pages), his destruction of Paris' oldest existing city centre in the land between today's boulevard du Palais and rue d'Arcole. The same had reserved the same fate for the cloitre Notre-Dame to the north of the cathedral, but thanks to his early departure there are still some buildings there today that give us some idea of what middle-ages Paris looked like.


PROMENADE 0001: l'Ile de la Cité – Part I


0001-02

Depart – Square de Vert-Galant


We are looking downriver from the western tip of the Ile de la Cité, watching the river's quiet flow away from us. To our right, and to the right of the path of the river's current, is the part of the city that we will often refer to as its Rive Droite, to our left Paris' opposing Rive Gauche and in front of we see the spans of the city's many bridges across the river. This spot is peaceful as the sounds of shore traffic is far from this point, and that crossing the island behind us is dampened by the greenery of the park we are at the tip of.

To get here we had to walk down a good flight of stairs. This spot is the only in Paris to retain its original elevation: this was once the tip of two parallel islets extending from what could be considered to be the ile de la Cité mainland, and remained uninhabitable until the construction of the Pont-Neuf. The rest of the island, from its original sandy shores, began to rise above the water from the time it became inhabited; upon the construction of its first sixteenth century quays and the ensuing masonry walls that would decide its final elevation, the ile de la Cité had risen more than seven metres above the water in places. The rise in the land came about because of many demographical reasons, but the largest was because of the landfill and refuse of human habitation.

This park is charming but little visited at this time of the year. Called the square du Vert-Galante, its name is the same given as a nickname to the King Henri IV for his love for flirting and silkworm culture (today's "Vert" (green) is a transformaion of "Ver" meaning "worm") – and these gardens were once a choice quiet spot for lovers promenading on the bridge above.

The wind over the water is sharp here at the point of the island; let us walk back towards the stairs from where we came so we can get a closer look at the bridge we see there. Aside from the architectural scenery along the shorelines and the interesting perspective our low altitude gives to our view of Paris' bridges, there is little to note on our way there. Yet as we near our destination we see a line of contorted faces looming down upon us…





0001-09

The Pont-Neuf


This is perhaps Paris' most famous bridge. Called quite blatantly the "new bridge" at its time of construction, it has retained the same name ever since. In terms of location it was Paris' fourth bridge, and the third to be built in stone. Built from 1578 on the orders of Henri III and Catherine de Medecis as their connection between the ile de la Cité, Rive Gauche and the royal palace that was the Louvre then. It was also the first bridge to be unadorned with houses as was the custom then; instead, upon its completion in 1607, its walkways were lined with the boutiques and stands of merchants and offerers of services or cures. The Pont Neuf of those times had a reputation comparable to today's Champs Elysees. The faces we see above are the creations of the bridge's architect, Baptiste Androuet du Cerceau, and number 385 in all. Today the Pont Neuf is Paris' oldest bridge, as the two others existing then have since been carried away or destroyed by either flood, age or fire.

Now that we are at the eastern end of the square, we can get a closer look at the abovementioned bridge: the gradation you see engraved into the prow of one of its pillars is quite evidently there to mark the hight of the river – but perhaps it should be noted that Paris has no living evidence of any flood worse than that of 1910 and this is still today used as a point of reference for any modern crues.

After another look around the bridge's foundations and perhaps a closer look at some of those sometimes disturbing sculptured masks above us, let us make our way towards the double-archway wee see at the top of the monumental stairs before us. I can't help but note that those openings look like coffins. Between the two you can read of the demise of the last official leader of the Templars in 1314: More than likely in the goal of imparing the Templar's vast riches and landholdings, Templar leader Jaques Molay had been convicted by the king Philippe IV (le Bel) of crimes from heresy to buggery and burned at the stake here. All this of course happened at a time when this place was but an islet.

Once through one of the rather ominous archways we find ourselves in a narrow trench with a choice of two opposing staircases. Taking the one to the left we will make our way to the street above and find ourselves, after being confronted with the hulking Sameritaine department store across the river, we find ourselves in the north-west corner of the…


0001-18

Place du Pont-Neuf


This flagstoned square is an integral part of the Pont Neuf, but the statue in its centre has a story of its own. We'll get to that in a second, but let us first have a look back at the park and over the river from this new higher perspective.

Of the horsebacked statue which is this place's centrepeice, only the marble pedestal is of origin as the the original statue topping it was toppled and melted down in the years following France's 1789 revolution. In thinking of the original statue, one could even say that the horse in front of us has a longer history than its rider: originally created as a mount for an eventual statue of the Grand-Duke of Tuscany (a project dampened by the death of the Duke) the riderless bronze horse was given as a gift to Marie de Medecis. Still riderless, the statue was mounted here in 1614 as the first known statue of a subject purely equestrial. Louis XIII had the statue topped with another of his father (Henri IV) from 1635, and as an addition celebrating military victories, bas-reliefs to the pedestal and statues of chained slaves at the same's four corners. The pedestal remained empty until Louis XVIII had had a statue of Napoleon (formerly topping the place Vendome column) melted down for a new effigy of Henri IV. This last version, dating from 1818, is the same that we see before us. One detail of note, though: The new statue's sculptor, a fervent Bonapartist, had enclosed a statuette of Napolean to its inside along with texts by Voltaire, and there they stayed until the only recent (2004) renovation of the statue and its pedestal.

If you turn and take a closer look at what seems to be but a pair of quite quaint but normal brick apartment buildings behind you, you'll see something more if you'd care to draw nearer: from the point in front of our statue they hide a triangular block of similar buildings behind them and, now to think of it, the rest of the ile de la Cité as well. Let's walk over to the Rive Gauche side of the island to get a closer look at the outward-facing façade of…


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La Place Dauphine


This is one of two areas of the ile de la Cité to avoid escape Haussmann's destruction/reconstruction campaigns. The riverside façade you see before you along the quai des Orfevres, though fairly uniform today, was even more so upon the construction of this place at the beginning of the 17th century, as all of the buildings resembled those you saw from the place du Pont-Neuf. Quite a few of them were either destroyed or renovated beyond recognition, but as you will see later, there are still a few blocks that have retained their original form.

As already mentioned, this land was once two islets at the western tip of the ile de la Cité joined to their larger neighbour upon the construction of the Pont Neuf. Upon the bridge's completion, the unused land to its east was given to the Parliment President Achille de Harlay] on the condition that he build a uniform block of buildings whose style would resemble those of the place Royale (today's place des Vosges) being built then. Probably in honor of the king's gift, the President Harlay named his place for the king's eldest son, the young dauphin and future King Louis XIII (le Juste).

As we make our way along the quai des Orfèvres ("quay of the goldsmiths") you may want to have a look at the river below; where there are stone quays today, much of the Seine's banks were but steep and sandy escarpments dotted with and watermills until well into the 19th century. This quay in particular was completed in 1807.

We are now at the eastern end of the Place Dauphine. If we look to the east of the rue Harlay we can see the reason this place was to be destroyed: the largest of Haussmann's four major architecture additions to the island, the Palais de justice covers the ile de la Cité shore to shore from here to the boulevard du Palais. It is presently being renovated so I've taken no pictures to show you here – check perhaps again in the coming months.

The building in front of us, probably the ugliest renovation of the lot, is a prime example of this square's disfiguration by time and speculation. The whole west side of the rue Harlay was once a solid block of buildings like the other two, but centred with a monumental archway – all of this was destroyed in 1874. The façade at 2 rue Harlay is still intact though, and is today protected from further modification by very strict patrimonial laws.

If you can project this façade onto all others in this square you will get a good picture of the beauty this place once had. Let us take a walk around and perhaps a sit if you like – notice the ironwork on number six of this place, and the façade of the building next to it still retains its original stone-spined brickwork. A few others are more or less preserved and protected by the same historical laws as the building above. After we're through here we'll move towards the western end of the place and our already-visited statue of Henri IV.

Let's just take a skip across the street to have a look at the outer place Dauphine from its quai de l'Horloge side – and after progress along the same quay and the Rive Droite side of the island. In passing note a the marble plaque upon the second-floor wall to our right denoting the building it adorns as the birthplace and residence of a certain "Mme. Roland" – this lady was the wife of a certain Roland de la Platiére and known during the revolution for her role as a "Girondin" and her stance against the free bloodletting of the post-revolution "Terror" years. She would be arrested and guillotined with other Girondins, and her husband would commit suicide soon after.

The quai de l'Horloge, completed in 1611, is much older than its counterpart to the opposite side of the island. The reason for its early development becomes clear when we see the stone towers that appear around the curve to our right as we progress forward.



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The Ile de la Cité Palaces


As mentioned in the introduction that precedes this chapter (as well as in the "History of Paris – Part I: chapter in the "Paris Generalities" section), this end of the island was reserved for its ruler's residences from around the fourth century, that is to say during the Gallo-Roman era. Only fragments remain of this latter era, but it is known that in Merovingian times (500-751) that the palaces stood to the east of a garden filling the western point of the island. Through centuries of Kings and renovations, each successive version of the royal batiments would grow to the east from there. Robert II ("le Pieux" – 996-1031) would rebuild the probably roman-era residences here into palaces during his reign, and these would be added to and embellished by the other kings of the same Capetian dynasty. Only vestiges of Saint-Louis (Louis XI – 1226-1270) reign onward are still standing today, and the first of these, a tower built around 1250, is the first in the line of four nearing us to our right.

Philippe IV ("le Bel" – 1285-1314) would entirely renovate the palace, extending it, in adding the next two towers ahead, to the today's boulevard du Palais. To the palace's inside, the following halls are of his era: in addition to rebuilding his residences, he added the a new "Grand Salle" (the "salle des Pas-Perdus" today) where he would give justice,. The "Conciergerie" (a building concecrated to the "concierge" or "guardian of the palace") and the "Salle des gens d'armes" (reserved for the palace guardians).

Charles V ("le Sage" - 1364-1380) would bring the palace's last royally-ordained renovations from 1353 with the construction of new kitchens and, most importantly, the tour de l'Horloge that we see ahead. This tower, quite different from the rest in its square construction, is graced with the city's first public clock. The clock itself, now before us, seems in dire need of restoration – it's last major overhaul was in 1848. Adorned with these statues on its (probably dark) blue background, the clock must have been quite remarkable in its heyday. The bell you see above it would chime on all great royal occasions.

If we make our way along the boulevard de palais we will come to a majestic gate; just above it we can only just discern the spire of a cathedral. In crossing to the other side of the street we can get a better view, and at the same time turn back for a better overall view of the tour de l'Horloge.

This chapel, the Sainte-Chapelle, is the palace's second-oldest still-standing structure, built during under the orders of the Saint-Louis. The king had bought saint-relics from the Emperor of Constantinople, and ordered the construction of a building fitting for them. The work of the architect Pierre de Montreuil, this edifice is a church with two levels; the lower was reserved for the court, and the upper for the king and the Saint-relics. Built in the then-perfected flamboyant Gothic style, the use of pillars and ribbing for support instead of the solid walls commonly used till then, its architectural techniques made allowed what is perhaps the city's most majestic stained-glass windows. The inner cathedral, especially the upper level, is an exercise in light and lightness. Everything between the Conciergerie and the Sainte-Chapelle went up in flames in 1776, and the massive grill you see fronting the palace dates from the palace renovations thereafter.


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The Marché aux Fleurs


The major monuments of this promenade past us, we have but a short stroll to our next one. While we're here perhaps you'd like to take around the place behind us; not coincidentally, as we are in front of the Prefecture du Police, it is named for a Louis Lépine who served as a quite memorable prêfet from 1893. This place holds one of Paris' last flower markets, and its absolute last bird market on Sundays.

From here we will take the rue de la Cité before us to our next promenade in the eastern part of the ile de la Cité and its cloitre Notre-Dame…



HISTORICAL SECTION 02 - The Rive Gauche of Philippe-Auguste – the central Latin Quarter, dit "l'Université".


If Paris' first inhabited region was the Île de la Cité, its second was here. After chasing the Celtic Senons from their island habitations, it seems that the Romans quickly outgrew it and established their permanent town to the southern shore of the Seine.

This roman village, called "Lutèce" by its founders, grew from its early 1st-century foundations until around the middle of the fourth. There may have already existed a roadway leading across the island to the north and south then, but to this the Romans would add to this in building roadways leading to their other colonial outposts through the lands. The central roadway, leading south from the petite Pont to follow the rue Saint-Jacques, was a road connecting to Cenabum (also "Genabum" – today Orléans) then Spain; from this main route, running roughly along today's rue Saint Séverin to turn south along the rue de La Harpe in a path parallel to the first was a secondary road known as the "via inferior" (lower road); lastly, branching off from the same point as the second to the east along today's rue Galande and rue Lagrange was another route that, following a path to the south still traceable through Paris's streets today, led to Rome through Lyon.

The roads described above made the pinnacle of the Roman village's main arteries, but its heart was further south to the tip of the historical quarter we are in now. This historical division was hard to make, as we are covering ground that was inhabited in two stages of Paris' development: Of the Roman first only the roadways remain today, but on this skeleton was built the second: that of the post-Norman invasions. As for the time in-between, it is hard to say that the Left Bank was settled; it is known that many of the stones from degraded Roman edifices were used to build much in the post-Roman period, but that is about all. Whether Lutèce was destroyed by the 5th-century Frankish invasions or simply fell to ruins is still a subject of much dispute.

In any case, if there was anything left on the Left bank in those years it is certain that it fell to the Normans. Most every edifice that couldn't be ransomed was destroyed. Building in the time afterward must have been difficult because of all the rubble and foundations that had to be removed before the ground could be built anew – it is most probably for this that Paris' inhabitants preferred, from that time onwards, to fill the Right Bank marshe sand build on virgin land.

With all of the above, the Rive Gauche would be slow to grow. Paris' post-11th century expansion as a capital and Notre-Dame's proximity did a little to help, but it was mostly Philippe-Auguste's creation of the University of Paris and the wall he built there that sparked a real growth.

In this historical section (02) we will be covering the second patch of land to be settled in the Parisian basin: the land just to the south of its Île de la Cité. Though the Roman town stretched much further south, I have limited this section to the inside of Paris' Philippe-Auguste ramparts – little remains of anything roman outside of this area, and these limitations will help for later clarity – as it will become clear as we progress through our walks.


Promenade 0003


Le Clos du Laas
The roadways described above were important in marking limits between the many fief and parish landholdings around Paris. This week's walk will cover the easternmost portion of a quite ancient landholding whose demarcation dated at least from the 5th century: "le Clos du Laas."

A "clos" is generally a walled enclosure, and in feudal times many of the properties through these lands were exactly that. "Laas", on the other hand, was a signification a little more particular: Latin "arx" (or French-Latin "ars"), meaning "citadel", when combined with the medieval French "the", which would be "li", would make "li arx" or "li ars".

This territory in particular had been attributed to the Abbey Saint-Germain upon its 6th-century creation. In 1179 its Abbott Hughes decided to split its easternmost region into plots available for construction; between the river and a roadway between Paris' north-south axis, these were arranged around a new "rue de Laas", or our rue de la Huchette of today. All of the above was added to the parish jurisdiction of the nearby Saint-Séverin church.

This quarter was the Rive Gauche's most animated in the between the 13th and 16th centuries. After growth to the south had made the heart of the Rive Gauche closer to the Sorbonne, this area entered a period of decline until it had become, in the early 19th century, a dark, sordid and dismal group of decrepit buildings destined for destruction. The overall age of this quarter did much to protect it from being rebuilt anew, although it took many a year to gather those willing to invest in it. Those dark years past, today it has been recuperated since by the tourist industry and, although it is rarely frequented by Parisians, is an animated quarter today.


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Point du Depart: the Petit-Pont


From our spot in the centre of the Petit Pont we have a good view of the Rive Gauche riverfront. It is the land to the right of our bridge that concerns us today, but have a look to your left and the strange wood-and-plaster building rising rather haphazardly above the peaked roof of the house that fronts it: this building is a good representation of many others we will see today. Almost all Parisian structures between the 11th and 17th century followed this model with almost no change at all: A typical building then was built in stone on its ground floor, or "rez-de-Chausée", and on this would be built a framework of rough timber or "charpente". The outer walls would be formed by filling the framework with rough stone ("moellons") and mortar, and this in turn covered with plaster. This "half timber" look would remain the norm until, after a fire that had destroyed most of Paris in 1666, Louis XIV's decreed that all Paris' buildings be completely covered in plaster to lessen the chances of propagation of fire. Still, in poorer buildings this would only be done on the outer faces, and its wood is often still visible in its courtyard - as soon we will see.

Le Petit Châtelet


Before entering the maze of streets that is this quarter, let's stop for a second to the end of our bridge, on the land that once held one of Paris' earliest landmarks, le Petit-Châtelet.

Existing even since Roman times in the place where it stands today, it is thought that the Petit-Pont's mainland extremity, as was its "Grand-Pont" larger counterpart to the northern side of the Île de la Cité, had always been protected by some form of fortification or another. This type of bridge defence was common to Roman architecture, and it is most probable that later constructions serving the same purpose also followed the same model.

One of the earliest documentations about the Petite Châtelet is one that tells the story of one of the many 9th-century Viking attacks on Paris: In February of 886 precisely, floods had carried away the petite Pont to leave the petite Châtelet isolated, and its defenders were killed and the tower destroyed. Built in wood then, it is most probable that the Petite Châtelet was rebuilt in stone with the rest of the town's defences early in the next century.

We do know for certain that, after a flood in 1296 carried away most everything from along the riverbanks, the Petit Châtelet was rebuilt as a solid stone structure around 1369.

In this newer version, though it blocked what was then Paris' most travelled road, the Petite-Châtelet offered but a passage wide enough for one cart. It was obsolete as a means of defence even at the time of its reconstruction, because of the Philippe-Auguste city walls already in existence then; it served for little more than for a tollgate until, towards the end of the 14th century, its prisons (yet-unused) were annexed to those of the overcrowded Grande Châtelet. The role of a prison seemed to suit the Petit Châtelet quite well: of a dismal appearance, squat, square and unornamented, in addition to its aboveground prisons, its foundations held "oubliette" cells that, in addition to being constantly damp because of their closeness to the water, were almost closed to the circulation of air.

The Petite Châtelet was destroyed in 1782. If anything remains of its foundations, they would lie under today's Place du Petit-Pont – as there were no quays then, with the foundations of all riverfront properties dropping directly into the water here, they would be further back towards the centre of today's place du Petite-Pont.


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La rue de la Chat Qui Pêche, la rue Xavier-Privas, la rue de la Huchette


All of the buildings to the right of our bridge date from the construction of the quai Saint-Michel from 1811. In crossing the street and progressing below them to our right, we come to a sort of mini-square with a lamp as its centrepiece: this is the mouth of one of Paris' narrowest streets, whose name is that of a former shop owner's sign: la rue de la Chat qui Pêche (the "Cat-who-fishes"). Further on to the same side is our entry to the heart of the former Clos du Laas, the rue Xavier-Privas.

This street's present name is only recent for, as we will soon see, it was called for the longest time the "rue Zacharie". This name in legend has many attributions, but the most plausible seems to be that of a former 13th-century building bearing the sign "maison Sacalie". The part of this street to the north of the rue Huchette changed names many times through the centuries, as, until the construction of the quay, it was practically a dead-end. Xavier-Privas was the pen name of the 19th-20th century poet Antoine-Paul Taravel who spent his last years in this quarter.

Once past the quite unremarkable first part of our alleyway onto the rue de la Huchette, we find one of the strangest buildings we'll see in this walk: quite typical of the haphazard destruction-construction history of this quarter, this one seems to have been wedged into the corner made by two already-existing buildings. Taking the rue de la Huchette to our right, you'll see that the building it is leaning against, number 21 rue de la Huchette dates from the Louis XVI period (1774-1791). Admire the ironwork in its windows; notice that the monogram in the centre of each seems to differ from apartment to apartment.

The rue de la Huchette, like the lower rue Xavier Privas and the rue Saint-Séverin we will see later, is something of a tourist-oriented "restaurant row" today. Perhaps ironically this is not so far from its 17th-century vocation: its name had changed then to "rue des Rôtisseurs" (practically "barbecue street") as it had become populated by meat-roasting merchants. In fact this street already had its "Huchette" appellation on a 1284 plan, this name being that of a "maison de la Huchette" that stood further towards the place du Petit-Pont.

Let's continue our way along the rue de la Huchette to its intersection with the rue de la Harpe.


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La rue de la Harpe


The rue de la Harpe was one of the Rive Gauche's major arteries until the construction of the boulevard Saint-Michel in 1855. Beginning at the corner of the rue Saint-Séverin, It stretched much further south from its miniscule length of today; in fact, along with the "rue d'Enfer" further south (today the boulevard Denfert-Rocherereau), it was Paris' second-oldest roadway, as in Roman times the whole length was known as the "Via Inferior" (or "the lesser (or "lower") road"). The Petite Pont being the Rive Gauche's only connection to the Île de la Cité until well into the 14th century, the via Inferior turned to roughly follow the rue Saint-Séverin to meet the main roadway, today's rue Saint-Jacques, just below it. As for the reason it has its "Harpe" appellation of today, this can be traced back to a 13th century plan showing it named as the "vicus Reginaldi dicti le Harpeur" (or "street of Reginald, also known as 'the harpist'") – probably the name of a storefront sign.

A second bridge crossed the river at today's Pont Saint-Michel from 1378, which would by why the more recent portion of the rue de la Harpe above the rue Saint-Séverin is angled towards it. In fact this upper portion was called the "rue de la Vieille Boucherie" until its 1851 unification to the little remaining from the original rue de la Harpe after the Boulevard Saint-Michel's construction.

Before 1855 the rue de la Huchette and rue Saint-Séverin emptied into the rue de la Harpe and went no further; In the massive reconstructions of those times, these streets would be continued westwards until the boulevard, and everything along their path destroyed. It is for this that the only buildings of any age are to its eastern side, or to the left of our southward course.

The rue de la Harpe is interesting at its intersection with the rue Saint-Séverin – let's take a walk around the place, and as there are few buildings of interest in this section of the rue de la Harpe, take a jog over for a look at #34 rue Saint-Séverin. This is one of my favourite courtyards on this promenade; with its noble staircase and mask-topped archways… the greenery adds a very nice touch. A very kind lady living there showed me around, and we chatted while I took my pictures – it seems that this building has two levels of basement (a trait quite typical to buildings dating before the 18th century) but the neighbouring restaurant wasn't as near as obliging. There wasn't much to see anyways, she told me, because the restaurant had filled every centimetre it could with all its equipment and stores.

Continuing along the rue de la Harpe, most of these buildings date from this street's widening in the late 18th century – that is until we arrive at the level of numbers 35 and 37. We will have a closer look at the former, as it is the more interesting: Beyond its quite remarkable blue door and facade (classé "Monument Historique") we'll find a charming courtyard, and to its right an ornate stairway dating from around 1730. This property had the particularity of marking a right angle to open into the rue de la Parcheminerie which we will visit very soon: After advancing through a passageway joining this courtyard to another beyond, and entering a door leading to a stairway to the floors above, we can see a strange little doorway, today blocked with plaster, that at one time opened into the property beyond. We will see the other side later on, but it is too bad that we cannot see it through this way… the stairway here is interesting though, with doors added at all angles… let's take a quick look up then exit this property to continue our way along the rue de la Harpe.

We pass the mouth of the rue de la Parcheminerie, but let's continue on a bit before doubling back to it – at #45 we'll find a building from the late 18th century whose "monumental" door has also been listed on the "protected items" list of Monuments Historiques.


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La rue de la Parcheminerie, la rue Boutebrie


Making our way back north to turn right into the rue de la Parcheminerie. This street, opened from the 13th century, was at first called "rue des Écrivans" as at one time one could hire one of the many scribes that would sell their services here. This name had become "rue des Parchemeniers" by the late 14th century, suggesting the presence of those selling parchment – which wouldn't be surprising when one thinks of the nearby Paris Université. Today's "Parcheminerie" is but a derivation of the latter name.

The rather unremarkable facades to the left of this street are ancient – number 30 dates from the 16th century. Further ahead, just past where the street widens we can see a charming building to our right at number 29: dating from the mid-18th century, its facade and roof are protected under the Monument Historique classification. Coincidentally its ground floor is occupied by a bookstore run by someone I have known since my very first years here in Paris – someone from the same country as I. I'll let the picture tell you the rest.

If you care to look to the opposite side of the street you will see the second facade of the building at 35 rue de la Harpe – it seems to have been rebuilt quite a few times in the centuries since its construction, and looks in need of renovations around its balconies. It still offers an interesting perspective, and you can see the remnants to the right of its facade of what looks to have been a supporting wall for another building that once stood next to it.

Moving forward we see the Saint-Séverin church to our left, but before we head there we'll perhaps take a peek down the rue Boutebrie to our right – Though unremarkable in its facade, #8 hides a supposedly magnificent staircase dating from the 16th century, also Monument Historique. I have yet to see it, but once I do you'll see it here. Just next-door at #3 is a narrow building dating from the same period – notice its peaked roof. As for the name of this street, it is a derivation of that of a count "Erembourg de Brie" who had a demure here.

Heading back towards the north you'll see a park to our side of the Saint-Séverin church – the square André Lefèvre – from where we can get a good look at the rear of what was once its "charniers". This term will have its explication to the other side of the church…


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La rue des Prêtres-Saint-Séverin - Église Saint-Séverin


Since the early 6th century stood an oratory dedicated to the Saint-Martin on these grounds, attended by a priest named Séverin (dit-"le solitaire"). This monk would become the teacher of what should have been a rightful heir to the Frankish throne: In 524, one of Clovis four sons ruling the Frankish kingdom killed his just deceased brother's three children to lay claim to his lands. One of these, Chlodovald, managed to escape and sought refuge in a nearby monastery. Renouncing the throne by entering the orders, Chlodovald would become a disciple of Séverin the Solitary. Séverin would be sainted (and this while he was still living) and his student would later become the Saint-Cloud. This at least is what the legend says; you find it here for the French history it contains. The part about the kings is most certainly true.

Of any oratory standing here little remained after the 9th-century Norman raids. The ruins would be rebuilt into a chapel and baptised to Séverin towards the middle of the 10th century. Saint-Séverin became its own parish from 1210, a time around when it was rebuilt into a church.

Now that we're on the rue des Prêtres-Saint-Séverin, if you would care to look to the gate just to the right of the church you will see a small square that was once the church cemetery. The archways to see to its rear and right side the remains of the "charniers" whose rear you saw earlier – From as early as the 13th century, when Paris' population began to outgrow its cemeteries, parish churches began the practice of digging up the bones of mostly-decomposed bodies to pile them in aboveground houses, thus freeing the ground for new burials. Saint-Séverin was no exception – in fact the arches we see today are visible only because they have been recently returned to their original form: In the early 18th century they were covered under a rather bleak structure that added an extra floor above them. This restoration took place at the same time as the construction of the adjacscent presbytery sometime in the late 19th century.

Let's continue onward to visit the Saint-Séverin church itself. The ornate doorway you see before you wasn't always the church's principle entry, as this was once on the rue Saint-Séverin under its bell tower: The wall where we stand held only an unadorned secondary doorway until the decorative archway you see before you was brought here in 1837. The sculpted arch and columns belonged to a church dating from the same period as Saint-Séverin that stood in today's place du Parvis Notre-Dame, the church of Saint-Pierre-aux-Bœufs. Its destruction was one of the first that would ravage the Île de la Cité from the early to late 19th century (see promenades 0001 & 0002).

Moving to the side of the church under its bell-tower and its "old" principal door, you can see a remnant of its former importance in the almost unrecognizable lions you see to the lower each side of it – these once served to support a pedestal that would carry the archpriest's throne whey he gave justice, as from the 11th century the Saint-Séverin church, freed from its dependence on the Abbey Saint-Germain des Pres, became the centre of its own parish.

The original 13th-century church subsists through the ground floor of the bell tower and a few of its central bays. Built in the more sober gothic style typical to those times, much of these renovations disappeared under the next enlargements that took place from the late 15th century; the construction of its right wing and chapels, built in the more flamboyant style, began in a ceremonial first stone lain on the 12th of May 1489.

Though dedicated to the Saint-Séverin, the church seemed to have retained the memory of its origins as a Saint-Martin oratory. Passing pilgrims would nail horseshoes to its door to bring luck and safety – as Saint-Martin was the patron saint of travellers. Saint-Séverin was important as a church to the University quarter – its bell would sound the curfew each night.

If you would like to enter and have a look around you may – I'll leave you as your own guide for the time being. Just note that you shouldn't be alarmed at the state of many of the paintings and murals you see inside – though they look precious and ancient, most of them are mid-19th century reproductions of earlier works.

Once you are done inside we will continue onwards to finish our promenade along the portions of the rues Saint-Séverin, Xavier-Privas and Huchette that we haven't visited yet.



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La rue Saint-Séverin


In all honesty I must say that I am disappointed in the face that presents this quarter today. It is extremely difficult to see anything of interest behind the garish colours of "theme" restaurants and tourist trap souvenir shops that line these streets – much of the places indicated in what I have read about this quarter are gone today. Still, with the above writ in mind and a lot of foot and eye work, one can still find a few places indicated, and even make a few discoveries as I think I have.

I suggest that we stay close enough to the Saint-Séverin to finish covering the street bearing its name. First turning to our right to continue under the church's gargoyles, perhaps you would like a last look up at the same's tower and facade.

The first thing of interest is a strange building dating from the Louis XVI period, and just beyond a doorway that looks very ancient indeed – it may date from as early as the late 17th century. It is a pity that the studded wooden door that it held is now gone – in its place is a shop selling tourist-targeted items. I found it worth the while to visit after the store opened, as it seems that it was once but an alley between two buildings leading to another behind. What's more, in the hallway of the building just beyond at number 6, I found a very ancient grill blocking what once would have been a window into this alleyway.

Even more interesting was an alley further on, but to find it one must be very very tall or well-informed. Just beyond the restaurant that makes number 10 of our street, have a look up – you'll see, above what looks to be but a normal code-guarded door had you been looking straight in front of you, that it is but blocking a gap between the buildings to each side of it. Take a step to the left of this door and have a look above it to the right – engraved into the stone on each side of the corner is a street name: ours, and to the alley-side, we can see that this was once the "cul de sac Sallembriere" ("dead-end Sallembriere"). I believe its name comes from that of a former building owner. If you would like to go in you can – the view outward towards the church is interesting.

This visited, let's return to the part of the rue Saint-Séverin that lies to the west of the church. Have a look up at the building at #14 – there you will see a bas-relief of a swan wrapped around a crucifix – this served as a logo for a store formerly occupying the facade below it, a boutique called "la Cygne de la Croix" – a stereonym play-on-words that translated would mean "the sign of the cross".

Turning back towards the mouth of the rue Xavier-Privas, we get a good perspective of the building that makes its corner with ours – and if you look up as we approach it you will see engraved upon it this street's old name, the "rue Zacharie".


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La rue Xavier-Privas, la rue de la Huchette (suite, fin)


There is little left to note along the length of the rue Xavier-Privas, other than most of the buildings it contains date from the 17th century. Turning to the right onto the rue de la Huchette, have a look up at the street name above – below the modern blue sign there, you can just make out where it was engraved into the stone there.

To the same side of the rue de la Huchette at #15 we see a very narrow building that is worth a look. Number fourteen opposite it still faintly bears, in an oval above its street-level facade, a "Y" logo representing a former needle-maker of renown. Almost invisible today, I raised the contrast of the photo I took of it to give you a better look. This logo, like the building that holds it, dates from the late 18th century, but its company existed already in the 16th century.

It seems that there are renovations going on in the courtyard of #13 so I had a look in – not much to see there, though the stairway was worth remarking. I did take a snap of a wall they were working on to show you what the inner construction of a house of this quarter looks like – many seem to be built in stone, but most are of the wood, stone and plaster style that I described much earlier in our promenade.

Probably the best example of this lies just next door. After a glimpse down the alley from where we entered this quarter, let us make our way down the long stone-lined hallway that makes 13 rue de la Huchette – there I found quite a big surprise.

This building seems to date from at least the late 17th-century in at least its ground floor. There is a well to the right of the courtyard, but it seems to go no further down than the basement. More interesting is the stairway to its far left corner: Only half embedded into the building behind it, its massive balustrades seem very ancient indeed, yet I have found nothing about it in any documents anywhere. It looks as though it was recently restored, so perhaps it was until now ignored…

Climbing the staircase was a bit of fun – what looks to be the kitchen of some apartments have barred windows opening directly into the stairwell. Up at the top we have a good look at the roof, the first we've seen until now… the roofs of any buildings protected as a "monument historique" we've seen until now probably resemble this one as it is in slate and not the usual Parisian post-19th century zinc.

Making our way back down towards the entryway, I look up to see the massive balustrade of yet another stairway – but this I had missed on the way in. I had at first thought that it perhaps belonged to building next door, but in continuing back towards the hallway we see the way up to our left. This stair is strange as well, wrapping around its small square column of air too narrow for even a basketball to pass.

After a look through the barred doorway that blocks the basement stairs, and a hello to a cat that apparantly lives there, we make our way back onto the street again. Just across from us is the last building of note on this promenade: built around 1729, it once housed a merchant selling under the sign of "l'Hure d'Or". I read that there should be a medallion logo on its facade, but today it is nowhere to be seen. Looking up though, the gargoyle-esque masks topping the windows are interesting…

We have reached the end of this promenade, but the next is not so far away. We will be visiting the next fief over, the "Clos Mauvoisin" that, taking the overflow from the Notre-Dame University, would form the base for what would become the quite distinct Université de Paris…


0004 – The Clos Mauvoisin



This is our second of two visits to Paris’ first –inhabited riverside Rive gauche region. This area was prone to flooding, so few permanent structures appeared before the 10th century – but when they did, they brought the landfill and landscaping that transformed the irregular banks of the Seine into a solid and dry shoreline.

The area we will cover is mostly in a region once called the “Clos Mauvoisin”. Stretching eastward from the Petit-Pont until the rue des Bernardins and south to today’s rue Galande, this property was in private hands until the reign of Louis VIII (“le Lion” – 1223-1226), when it was divided into lots and sold on the condition that its buyers build there. This decision was most probably because of the development around a road that existed there since the end of the 12th century: probably taking form at the same time as the 7th-century rive Gauche “port de la Bûcherie”, the “rue de la Bûcherie du Petit-Pont” stretched between the shoreline above today’s place Maubert and Paris’ then-unique Rive gauche bridge to the ile de la Cité. This riverside port, as it name signifies, was created for the gathering of the logs floated to the capital, its provision in firewood and building timber.

The rue Galande was not only a properly line, but an important road that led, through the rues de la Montaigne Saint-Genevieve, Descartes, Mouffetard and the avenue des Gobelins, to Lyon and Rome. The riverside land to the south of its southeastward path was another holding, the “Clos Garlande”, belonging to the powerful family for which it was named.

Its former Roman occupants aside, the Rive gauche remained relatively uninhabited until well into the 12th century. Its first centre of re-animation was to the Rive gauche shore opposite the Notre-Dame Cathedral: The professors of Paris’ cathedral school, one of the most popular in Europe then and overflowing with students, were obliged to hold open-air classes outside of the Cloister confines and chose the barren lands on the northward slope of the montaigne Sainte-Genevieve. Around the nucleus of activity created by the student movement to the Rive gauche appeared many new churches and buildings, which would become the centre of a student quarter that Parisians even today call “l’Université”.


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Point de Départ: rue de la Bûcherie


This length of street running to the south of the quai de Montebello used to be one of this riverside region’s few west-east roadways. Traced in the first years of the 13th century, it actually was in itself almost a quay, as it ran along the crest of the Seine’s Rive Gauche sloping riverbanks, and the land between it and the river was frequently flooded. Its name, “la Bûcherie”, came from its role as a connection between the road to the Petit Pont and a Rive Gauche port used between the 11th to 16th century for the principal point of reception for the City’s supply of logs, a rough wood used mostly for firewood and rough building timber.

Most of the houses remaining along this part of our street date from the 16th century: note particularly #39, that after a glance up above the restaurant it houses in its façade today, you will notice that it is in fact an independently-standing two-story house. Visible in the courtyard behind it (which we saw from across the Petit Pont in promenade 0003) is the half-timber rear of 16th-century apartment buildings surviving this quarter’s many renovations. There you can also see a stairway encased only to its middle into the building, much like the one we also visited in our precedent chapter.

Moving forward, the rue de la Bûcherie comes to a temporary end at a garden square. We will find our way later on to where it continues to the other side, but for now let us visit the tree-filled oasis behind a very ancient church, in fact, second only to Montmartre’s Saint-Pierre, one of the City’s oldest: Saint-Julien le Pauvre. Before heading to the church proper let us take a walk around the square named for René Viviani, a gentleman who served a brief term as France’s Prime Minister in 1914.

Our first remarkable view is across the square and the river to where we see Notre-Dame haloed by the early morning light. As we cross the gardens towards the old church behind us, you will notice that there bits and pieces of stone architecture poised decoratively to both sides of the path: these are remains of Saint-Julien’s former façade. The large and leaning tree centred in a patch of grass of its own just to the north of the church is said to be Paris’ oldest as it was planted in 1601 by the botanist Robin.

Let’s take a closer look at the church itself.


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Saint-Julien le Pauvre


The Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre church was said to have already existed since at least the 6th century at the important crossroads that made the (today’s) rue Saint Jacques and the rue Galande. It existed as ruins from the 9th century Norman raids onwards, until the Benedictine Abbey of Longpoint bought it and its surrounding lands in 1120. Most probably because of the minimal income generated by the then-barren lands, the Abbey rebuilt the church upon its old foundations in a minimal and conservative classical/gothic style; In addition the construction was slow, as it was complete only to its basic structure only in 1180.

One could consider that it was complete with the addition of a second alley, an apse and the beginnings of a bell tower in 1240, although the latter was never completed. A reason for these embellishments could be because of its then new role as principal hall for the Paris University assemblies, a role it would retain until it was practically destroyed in 1524 by rioting students unhappy with the assembly’s choice of Rector. Stripped of its role as a meeting hall for the Université faculty one year later, it would only be minimally rebuilt from a state of ruin in 1651 in the form that it has today, that is to say with its façade roughly rebuilt in an almost Grecian fashion two spans to the rear of its original location.



0004-06

Rue de Saint-Julien le Pauvre


Many of the buildings lining the side of the street date from the same period as those along the rue de la Bûcherie, that is to say from the late 16th-century. Even these were rebuilt atop even older structures: some have basements, covering two floors, dating from the early 12th century, most probably remains of buildings that were most probably former church dependencies. Notice the blue doorway with its 16th-century arch: this and some of the building behind it have been classed Monument Historique. The house just beyond is curious too, as is the small arched doorway in the building beyond which seems to be the remains of an ancient basement entryway. Opposite, notice the half-timber build of the apartment building just to the right of the façade of the church we just visited. In front of us, marking the end of the rue Saint-Julien le Pauvre where it meets the rue Galande, stands a curious green-tinted half-timber building that seems to have been created as a hasty addition to the buildings supporting it somewhere in the mid 18th century.


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Rue Galande


Leaving Paris’ main “rue outre Petit-Pont” just to the south of the bridge, this street was the beginning of a road that, if continued through the rues Lagrange, Montaigne Ste-Genevieve, Descartes, Mouffetard and Avenue Gobelins, would eventually lead to Italy. Its importance as a crossroads was the nucleus of all post-Merovingian-era Left-bank growth. This street takes its name from the ‘Clos Garlande” property it bordered to the north; the land to its north being the “Clos Mauvoisin”, it bore also this property’s name at several points through Paris’ history. This street would form another important crossroads further to its east where it met a road running southward from the riverbank opposite the Notre-Dame cathedral, the rue de Fouarre; this crossroads would eventually become the scholastic rive Gauche centre that was the place Maubert.

This rather quaint street is decorated has a rather medieval look about it, most probably because of its narrow calibre and the décor of a few of the restaurants that line it. The first property of note we come to is the façade of #65 rue Galande: its blue rectangular doorway topped with a carved decor depicting a male face dates from the late 16th century; look higher up and you will see its “pignon” which in this case is not a wooden point but an arc of carved stonework. It is a very beautiful property, with its high windows along its first floor that was considered the “noble” level of habitation in the years before plumbing and elevators.

To the opposite side of the street, at #64, you will see a rather solid wood door. Nondescript in itself, it opens into a courtyard holding, classed “monument Historique”, the remains of a former chapel dedicated to the Saint Blaise. I was unable to enter this property, but, as for the chapel Saint-Aignan mentioned in a precedent chapter, I will post an update as soon as I am able to obtain a visit.

Further along to the same side of the street, above the doorway of number forty-two, you will notice a rather primitive stone bas-relief of what seems to be people crossing a river by boat: This is an icon dating from the 14th century, and is thought to have adorned the original façade of the Saint-Julien le Pauvre church. It recounts the legend of Saint-Julien (“l’Hospitalier”), the Saint for which the church was named, as it shows the saint and his wife accompanying the Christ across a waterway to a chapel that was his destination.

Just ahead lies an intersection that was this street’s crossing with the abovementioned rue Fouarre. The street to our left still bears this name, but that to our right has, since the mid-19th century, been rebuilt into the rather wide and Hausmannian rue Dante. The rue Galande exists in its original state to the other side only to our right, as the building block on the even-numbered side of the street has been rebuilt during the same period.

Numbers 25-41 of this street are very ancient properties dating for the most part from the 16th century. Number 31 particularly, dating from the end of the 15th century, has quite a remarkable and intact “pignon”, and number 27 is interesting for the distortion its ground floor has underwent through the centuries. Although they seem sturdy today, only with difficulty discernable from its stone-built neighbours, one must remember that until the rough timber that makes the skeleton of buildings such as these was unadorned by plaster until obliged by law from the mid-16th century. Sometimes the street side façade of half-timber buildings are even “disguised” to look like stone through false mortar drawn into their plaster, but they can almost always be identified by the seemingly decorative iron “anchors” that were later added to retain their tendency to warp away from the buildings surrounding, making them lean forward over the street. This action is called “encourbaillement” in the French term of architecture history.

Past the visually interesting almost prow-like delta made by our street’s meeting with the rue Lagrange (named for an 18th-19th century mathematician), the rue Galande once continued to the place Maubert which extended much further to the north before Haussmann’s time. Let us take a left turn to follow the rue Lagrange to the short length remaining of the street that was the origin of the Left Bank’s scholastic centre.


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l’Université de Paris


The University of Paris has its origins in the Notre-Dame Cathedral. Charlemagne (768-814) had created the first official educational system when he decreed that all cathedrals offer an education to the younger who were destined for a life in the clergy, and this later was opened to all who could attend. Cathedral classes were usually held outdoors in gardens below the walls of the church.

Paris’ scholastic fame grew such that other Abbeys began to garner a reputation as well. Factions of professors began to leave the Notre-Dame school from as early as the first years of the 12th century to escape the ecclesiastical dogma reigning over the teachings of the time, and by the end of the same the Left Bank’s Saint-Victor and Sainte-Genevieve Abbey professors had become the centre of a new scholastic centre. King Philippe Auguste (1180-1223) gave the Left Bank school its freedom from the Notre-Dame bishopric in 1200 by grouping it into a “Paris University” guild comparable to that of other tradesmen of the time. In its first years the University created “Faculty” subdivisions centred around the teachings of Theology, Canonical Law and the Arts (language (namely Latin) arithmetic, later sciences and music), each with its own “doyen” head and elected staff. After an edict from the Pope Pie IX in 1231, the University of Paris could totally bypass Notre-Dame’s influence to answer only to the Vatican itself.


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La rue du Fouarre


Upon its 12th-century creation this street was “rue des Écoles” or “rue des Écoliers”, but its present name to a derivative of an old French word “feurre” meaning “bundle of hay”. Most Parisian cathedral school classes took place in open air, with the students seated (by rule) upon the ground while the teacher would give his lesson from a raised dais or chair. When classes moved away from the Notre-Dame cathedral to the Left Bank in the late 13h century, they also moved to land still farmland, and it is from the fields that students would fetch their minimal cushion of comfort. This street led from the rue de la Bûcherie to the rue Saint-Jacques before being cut by the 19th-century rue Lagrange and rue Dante. It was what you could call the student “mall” as, through the aid of its many taverns, would become quite boisterous, to a point where Charles V (1364-1380) blocked it at both ends with chains (later gates) and ordered it closed at night.

Although this street’s history is long, there is not much of it left to see. In returning towards the river we see the rear of the Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre gardens to our left, and just before them an interesting building dating from the late 18th century. Just below there, behind a recently added coat of baby blue paint, is a seemingly intact façade, complete with hanging sign, dating from the same era.

We will cross the street and pick up the rue de la Bûcherie where it continues from the western side of the park.


0004-25

Rue de la Bûcherie – suite


Moving forward along the narrow sidewalk similar to many bordering Pairs’ older streets, we can make out what seems to be a dome peeking above the building to the opposite side of the street ahead of us. Sure enough, once we advance far enough to see a courtyard divided from the street by a wrought-iron fence, we see in its wall farthest from us a set of monumental doors and an “oeil de boeuf” (bull’s-eye) window above them; the grey slate-roofed dome begins just above, but its lower plane is ringed with wide latticed windows that would number eight if continued around the building.

Entering the courtyard we see a wide doorway to its wall parallel to the street, and what looks to be almost a fenced moat to both sides; the bottom of this may mark the street’s original level when this building was rebuilt in 1676. The black marble plaque over the doorway is an attestation of this reconstruction financed by the Canon Masle. Looking to the left of the courtyard and the rotunda’s massive doors, I see a smaller fire door open to its left; curious by nature, I decide to have a look in, and find a narrow stairway winding up through the thickness of the massive wall around the dome. After a short while, a hallway, and at the end of it a rather surprised gentleman sitting at a desk in a room only big enough for it – it seems to be but a space left between the central round rotunda room and its square foundations. I introduce my doings, and myself but the gentleman knew little about the building – in chatting I notice behind him a winding metal staircase to a gallery above. I did not take this, but thought to return should I not find another issue to the building centre.

Entering the courtyard then the wide doorway under the black commemorative plaque, I come into an “Ikea office” decorated wide room that seems to fill some sort of Administrative function. The quite austere original stonework was still visible above the shelving and décor, but the rotunda door was nowhere to be seen. Speaking to one of the tellers, I learn that this place is the "Centre de formation de la Ville de Paris", and the rotunda is unused today. To what I suppose was an exception to normal practice, he showed me (through what looked to be some sort of travel agency) to a large door where he left me. Entering I find a large amphitheatre rotunda, brightly lit from all sides with sunlight streaming through the wide latticed windows above. Just below them was a stone-balustrade mezzanine walkway running the circumference of the dome, and below, to three sides of the room, the building’s largest windows. The floor below my feet was a beautiful hardwood star whose many points radiated from the room’s centre to all points of its unique circular wall. This all the same was broken with Corinthian columns supporting the dome above. This room was once the heart of the Paris’ University’s fourth Faculty, its faculty of Medicine.



0004-30

The Faculty of Medicine


Medicine was but a popular science in Paris’ early years. The only real medical teachings before the second millennium were those of Cathedral schools, and with the Vatican’s increasing rigidity of rule regarding the proper conduct of its priests, even these became impracticable. First crippled with laws of celibacy and modesty, then with a Papal bull forbidding the letting of blood by any priest, we can consider that there were no “official” doctors of any effect at the end of the 12th century.

Yet bloodletting then was the principal cure for most ailments. Needing no licence practice, the beard-trimmers of the time, or “barbiers”, were the artisans who prided themselves most in this task. More knowledgeable in the human body but uneducated by any formal school were “Chirurgiens” (surgeons). Saint-Louis’ (1226-1270) broke the ecclesiastical rigor over everything scholastic concerning medicine by authorising his personal surgeon, Jean Pitard, to form his own circle of practitioners: Called the “Confrérie de Saint-Come” this circle of surgeons would meet in a room off the charniers of the Saint-Come church that once stood name near the corner of today’s rue Monsieur le Prince and Boulevard Saint-Michel. From 1274 the Paris University began giving lessons in medicine as a part of its Faculty of arts, and from 1331 surgeons had a Faculty of their own, bringing the University’s faculties to a number of four.

The faculty’s first known residence was, from 1369, a property on the rue des Rats (today the rue de l’Hôtel-Colbert). They added a few other properties over the years, and after the lapse of the Hundred-Years war, finally took up residence 1472 added the “house of the Iron Crown” on the corner of the same street and the rue de la Bûcherie. A first rather ramshackle amphitheatre was completed there to the beginning of the 16th century, but a Canon Le Masle would have the whole property rebuilt into a solid mansion in 1676. The amphitheatre that stands today to the left of the building’s main doorway was erected in 1744 and named for a famous Danish surgeon by the name of Winslow.

Unfortunately this building’s use was short-lived. Flooding in 1774 had covered our area under three metres of water, and the building, built of solid stone and brick walls, could not rid itself of its humidity afterwards. The faculty moved to a property on the rue Jean de Beauvais that year, and was disbanded after the 1789 revolution. It served all sorts of purposes since then, and even as apartment lodgings as can be seen in the photos of Marville, but was eventually recuperated by the government who still uses it today.


0004-35

Rue de l’Hôtel Colbert


Exiting the Amphitheatre and offices (after thanking the gentleman who showed us in), we turn right onto the rue de la Bûcherie again. If you look up at the street-sign embedded into the rotunda we just left you will see just above it the same name engraved into the stone; the number “17” was this street’s arrondissement before the 1860 re-attribution to the map we know today. Instead of moving along in our previous direction, let us take a jog along the rue de l’Hôtel Colbert towards the river. This street has had many names, called “rue des Rats” from its 1202 extraction from the Clos Mauvoisin. Colbert did indeed have a manor (“maison particuliaire”) in this street, thus its modern name, but the portion towards the river, but a grade down to the river in its earliest years, was called “rue des Petits Degrés.”

Once to the Quai de Montebello we can cross for a look along the river and the bouquinistes there, then take a look back from where we came. Let’s move on along the quay to until turning into the heart of this region once again through the rue de Bièvre. Admire the painted facades we’ll pass on the way, but we’ll be back to see those later.


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Rue de Bièvre


This street has had its name since at least 1250. In fact, at its origin, it wasn’t a street at all, but a branch of the Bièvre river deviated from its natural course to the Seine (near the Gare d’Austerlitz) by the monks of the abbey Saint-Victor in 1148. The river was returned to its former state from the early 15th century, but left its name to the flowered path was once its former bank. The street is long and narrow and infrequently travelled; mid-way along its length we can find the residence of Prime Minister François Mitterrand. In an alcove above the 1st floor at #12 is a statue of what looks to be the Saint-Michel, and this is most likely because many of the houses we will pass on the even-numbered side of the street were dependencies of the College Saint-Michel. To the left are a few doorways dating from the 17th century, and as we near the street’s end at the Boulevard Saint-Germain, a wide portal to our left at #1 seems to date from an even earlier era.

Before the construction of this part of the abovementioned Boulevard in 1855, the rue de Bièvre continued forward for at least another twenty metres until a wide place that had been the Rive Gauche’s central square from the 12th – 18th centuries. Let’s make our way around the building to our right to head north again.


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Place Maubert


Today reduced to its upper extremity to the north of the Boulevard Saint-Germain, the Place Maubert once stretched in a diagonal “X” to as far as the rue Saint-Victor. It also was created in 1202, and with the rue de Fouarre made the Rive Gauche’s first scholastic centre with its many colleges. “Maubert” is a name derived from “Aubert”, the second Abbott of the Saint-Genevieve Abbey that was the owner of much of the Rive Gauche land in Paris’ earliest years. The place eventually became a market when students left for the Saint-Genevieve colleges from the 14th century, and eventually became a place for capital punishment with a gallows and other execution devices, and there were many burnings there during the time of Francois I (1515-1547).

This entire area was a densely packed (save for the place itself) network of narrow streets filled with wine merchants and bric-a-brac before making way for the rue Lagrange and the boulevard Saint-Germain. There was also a covered marketplace to the south of the place Maubert where a (quite ugly) police station stands today, the covered market “Marché des Carmes” named for the Coventry it replaced from 1808. This was one of the Rive Gauche’s most animated centres of commerce.

Looking down to the right you will see that the buildings there are accessible only from the bottom of a stairway; this was no doubt the place Maubert’s elevation at the time of their construction. Just beyond, to the right of a quite pleasant view of Notre-Dame in the distance, we see the opening of a very narrow street. Let us make our way there.


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Rue Maitre-Albert


Almost all of the buildings along this street date at least to the 17th century. With the western side of the adjacent rue de Bièvre, this area is the centre of a small building oasis left untouched by city development. The obvious age of this area begins with a rather quaint hotel, and turning to the left we see a fan of tree branches jutting over the street from above a late-17th century door and courtyard. Further on to the left an early-18th century storefront closed in the “old” fashion of covering the windows with thick wooden planks fixed with iron crossbars. Opposite it at number 7 rue Maitre-Albert lies one of the street’s most beautiful properties: dating from 1668 and fronted with Louis XV-period (1715-1774) balconies, its massive aquamarine-painted arched doorway opens into a strange sort of courtyard formed by centuries of urban remodelling. This building supposedly has a large and beautiful vaulted basement, although I was unable to visit them the day I passed. Check back later!


0004-71

Rue des Grands-Degrés


This street, in its origin but a beaten-path extension of the rue de la Bûcherie, once led to a steep stairway leading down to the river, thus its name. The only things to note along its short length are to extremities: once we walk to the tree-filled square ahead of us from the rue Maitre-Albert and turn to look up at its first building (at #1) we see that its upper floors are covered in the remnants of 19th-century murals. This was quite typical to the times, as in the day before billboards every available wall space was filled with hand-painted advertisements. This space was visible from the river and quay, so must have been quite sought after, which most probably explains the many layers of advertising paint detectable across the walls above. Looking to our left to #73 (quai de la Tournelle) is what looks to be an arched doorway dating from at least the mid-18th century. As we walk to the west along our street, we see that most of the buildings to both sides of the street are old, particularly those at numbers 4, 6 and 8 whose balconies seemingly date from the Louis XV period.


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Rue de Haut-Pavée, Rue de Frédéric Sauton, impasse Maubert


Before turning left down the rue Frédéric Sauton, let’s take a gander to the rue de Haut-Pavée to our right: this street, very old, also sloped steeply towards the river, and was formerly called the “rue Pavée Saint-André” – its modern name is a mix of both attributions.

The rue Frédéric Sauton existed before the 1880’s only in its northern extremity between the rue de la Bûcherie and the rue des Trois-Portes (see later), as its eastern side to the south of there formed the north-eastern extremity of the place Maubert. The 19th century doorway of number 15 of this street, most likely for its craftsmanship, has been classed a “monument Historique”. The name of the alleyway we see just to the south of the corner, the impasse Maubert, can be explained by this former street arrangement, as today the place Maubert ends much further to the south. This alleyway is very important for this quarter (and even for Paris) as it was the centre of Paris’ first known college, “le college de Constantinople”, founded in 1206. Colleges as we know them today bear little resemblance to what they were in their early years.



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Les Colleges


Early Cathedral-school students took their classes in open air, and there were no grouped lodgings per se for the students attending. When Paris’ Notre-Dame then Université grew in fame enough to attract students from afar, this became a problem for those without riches or a relative to lodge them. With the growth of the Paris University grew organisation, and it was the clergy that in the early 13th century began to organise houses for students destined for a life in the religious orders. As the University’s teachers came from all of western Europe, a student could choose upon his entry the one of his liking, and he would spend his entire preliminary education under his guidance; towards the middle of the 13th century the Paris University’s teacher/student bodies were organised into four “Nations” (France, Picardie, Normandy and England (the latter later Germany)), and these attributed college houses of their own where their students and teachers alike resided.

Other organisations both laic and ecclesiastical later founded colleges for students from their own regions and faith, and some were even opened as a sort of charity institution. Colleges were common to the Maubert/rue de Fouarre quarter until the early 14th century when the Saint-Genevieve colleges gained popularity over those closer to the river.


0004-85

Rue des Trois Portes, rue des Anglais, rue Domat


This street is also gained much of its length through this quarter’s late-19th century remoulding: from its 1202 foundation it was but a smidgen of a Ruelle running from the rue de la Fouarre until roughly its #16. From this point onwards the street’s northern facades formed the northern extremity of the place Maubert. Along this street we can see at number 8 an early-18th century building, but most of the rest of the street dates from the late 19th century at the earliest.

Making our way back to the rue Frédéric Sauton, let us turn right then right again at the rue Lagrange. In crossing this last street we will find the mouth of the rue des Anglais: this street was already had its name as early as the 13th century, and was named for the “Nation” of one of the abovementioned colleges that stood nearby. The building at the corner of our street and the rue Domat (a supermarket today?) looks to be what once was an isolated building dating from the 18th century, and there are a few others along both these streets dating from the 17th and 18th centuries. The rue Domat, dating from the early 13th century, was named at its origin “rue de Plâtre” and “rue des Plâtrières” before being named for a 17th-century lawyer in 1864. We end our promenade at our street’s mouth with the rue Dante, which we will take, in turning left, towards our next promenade.


French to English Food Glossary --  Patricia Wells

A

Abbacchio: young lamb, specialty of Corsica.

A point: cooked medium rare.

Abat(s): organ meat(s).

Abati(s): giblet(s) of poultry or game fowl.

Abondance: firm thick wheel of cow's-milk cheese from the Savoie, a département in the Alps.

Abricot: apricot.

Acacia: the acacia tree, the blossoms of which are used for making fritters; also honey made from the blossom.

Acajou: cashew nut.

Achatine: land snail, or escargot, imported from China and Indonesia; less prized than other varieties.

Addition: bill.

Affamé: starving.

Affinage: process of aging cheese.

Affiné: aged, as with cheese.

Agneau (de lait): lamb (young, milk-fed).

Agneau chilindron: sauté of lamb with potatoes and garlic, specialty of the Basque country.

Agneau de Paulliac: breed of lamb from the southwest.

Agnelet: baby milk-fed lamb.

Agnelle: ewe lamb.

Agrume(s): citrus fruit(s).

Aïado: roast lamb shoulder stuffed with parsley, chervil, and garlic.

Aiglefin: aigrefin, églefin: small fresh haddock, a type of cod.

Aïgo bouido: garlic soup, served with oil, over slices of bread; a specialty of Provence.

Aïgo saou: water-salt in Provençal; a fish soup that includes, of course, water and salt, plus a mixture of small white fish, onions, potatoes, tomatoes, garlic, herbs, and olive oil; specialty of Provence.

Aigre: bitter; sour.

Aigre-doux: sweet and sour.

Aigrelette, sauce: a sort of tart sauce.

Aiguillette: a long, thin slice of poultry, meat, or fish. Also, top part of beef rump.

Ail: garlic.

Aile: wing of poultry or game bird.

Aile et cuisse: used to describe white breast meat (aile) and dark thigh meat (cuisse), usually of chicken.

Aillade: garlic sauce; also, dishes based on garlic.

Aillé: with garlic.

Aillet: shoot of mild winter baby garlic, a specialty of the Poitou-Charentes region along the Atlantic coast.

Aïoli, ailloli: garlic mayonnaise. Also, salt cod, hard-cooked eggs, boiled snails, and vegetables served with garlic mayonnaise; specialty of Provence.

Airelle: wild cranberry

Aisy cendré: thick disc of cow's-milk cheese, washed with eau-de-vie and patted with wood ashes; also called cendre d'aisy: a specialty of Burgundy

Albuféra: béchamel sauce with sweet peppers, prepared with chicken stock instead of milk; classic sauce for poultry.

Algue(s): edible seaweed.

Aligot: mashed potatoes with tomme (the fresh curds used in making Cantal cheese) and garlic; specialty of the Auvergne.

Alisier, alizier: eau-de-vie with the taste of bitter almonds, made with the wild red serviceberries that grow in the forests of Alsace.

Allumette: match; puff pastry strips; also fried matchstick potatoes.

Alose: shad, a spring river fish plentiful in the Loire and Gironde rivers.

Alouette: lark.

Aloyau: loin area of beef; beef sirloin, butcher's cut that includes the rump and contre-filet.

Alsacienne, à l': in the style of Alsace, often including sauerkraut, sausage, or foie gras.

Amande: almond.

Amande de mer: smooth-shelled shellfish, like a small clam, with a sweet, almost almond flavor.

Amandine: with almonds.

Ambroisie: ambrosia.

Amer: bitter; as in unsweetened chocolate.

Américaine, Amoricaine: sauce of white wine, Cognac, tomatoes, and butter.

Ami du Chambertin: friend of Chambertin wine; moist and buttery short cylinder of cow's milk cheese with a rust-colored rind, made near the village of Gevrey-Chambertin in Burgundy. Similar to Epoisses cheese. Amourette(s): spinal bone marrow of calf or ox.

Amuse-bouche or amusegueule: amuse the mouth; appetizer.

Ananas: pineapple.

Anchoïade: sauce that is a blend of olive oil, anchovies, and garlic, usually served with raw vegetables; specialty of Provence; also, paste of anchovies and garlic, spread on toast.

Anchois (de Collioure): anchovy (prized salt-cured anchovy from Collioure, a port town near the Spanish border of the Languedoc), fished in the Atlantic and the Mediterranean.

Ancienne, à l': in the old style.

Andouille: large smoked chitterling (tripe) sausage, usually served cold.

Andouillette: small chitterling (tripe) sausage, usually served grilled.

Aneth: dill.

Anise étoilé: star anise; also called badiane,

Ange à cheval: angel on horseback; grilled bacon-wrapped oyster.

Anglaise, à l': English style, plainly cooked.

Anguille (au vert): eel; (poached in herb sauce).

Anis: anise or aniseed.

Anis étoilé: star anise.

AOC: see Appellation d'origine contrôlée.

Apéritif: a before-dinner drink that stimulates the appetite, usually somewhat sweet or mildly bitter.

Appellation d'origine contrôlée (AOC): specific definition of a particular cheese, butter, fruit, wine, or poultry--once passed down from generation to generation now recognized by law--regulating the animal breed or variety of fruit, the zone of production, production techniques, composition of the product, its physical characteristics, and its specific attributes.

Arachide (huile d'; pâté d'): peanut (oil; butter).

Araignée de mer: spider crab.

Arbousier (miel d'): trailing arbutus, small evergreen shrubby tree of the heather family, also called strawberry tree, ground laurel and madrona tree with strawberry-like fruit dotted with tiny bumps; (honey of). Used for making liqueurs, jellies, and jams.

Arc en ciel (truite): rainbow (trout).

Ardennaise, à l': in the style of the Ardennes, a département in northern France; generally a dish with juniper berries.

Ardi gasna: Basque name for sheep's-milk cheese.

Ardoise: blackboard; bistros often use a blackboard to list specialties in place of a printed menu

Arête: fish bone.

Arlésienne, à l': in the style of Arles, a town in Provence; with tomatoes, onions, eggplant, potatoes, rice, and sometimes olives.

Armagnac: brandy from the Armagnac area of Southwestern France.

Aromate: aromatic herb, vegetable, or flavoring.

Arômes à la gêne: generic name for a variety of tangy, lactic cheeses of the Lyon area that have been steeped in gêne, or dry marc, the dried grape skins left after grapes are pressed for wine. Can be of cow's milk, goat's milk, or a mixture.

Arosé(e): sprinkled, basted, moistened with liquid.

Arpajon: a town in the Ile-de-France; dried bean capital of France; a dish containing dried beans.

Artichaut: (violet) artichoke (small purple) (camus) snub-nosed..

Artichaut à la Barigoule: in original form, artichokes cooked with mushrooms and oil; also, artichoke stuffed with ham, onion, and garlic, browned in oil with onions and bacon, then cooked in water or white wine; specialty of Provence.

Asperge (violette): asparagus (purple-tipped asparagus, a specialty of the Côte-d'Azur).

Assaisonné: seasoned; seasoned with.

Assiette anglaise: assorted cold meats, usually served as a first course.

Assiette de pêcheur: assorted fish platter.

Assoifé: parched, thirsty.

Assorti(e): assorted.

Aubergine: eggplant.

Aulx: plural of ail (garlic).

Aumônière: beggar's purse; thin crêpe, filled and tied like a bundle.

Aurore: tomato and cream sauce.

Auvergnat(e): in the style of the Auvergne; often with cabbage, sausage, and bacon.

Aveline: hazelnut or filbert, better known as noisette.

Avocat: avocado.

Avoine: oat.

Axoa: a dish of ground veal, onions, and the local fresh chiles, piment d'Espelette; specialty of the Basque region.

Azyme, pain: unleavened bread; matzo.

B

Baba au rhum: sponge cake soaked in rum syrup.

Badiane: star anise.

Baeckeoffe, baekaoffa, backaofa, backenoff: baker's oven; stew of wine, beef, lamb, pork, potatoes, and onions; specialty of Alsace.

Bagna caudà: sauce of anchovies, olive oil, and garlic, for dipping raw vegetables; specialty of Nice.

Baguette: wand; classic long, thin loaf of bread.

Baguette au levain or à l'ancienne: sourdough baguette.

Baie: berry.

Baie rose: pink peppercorn.

Baigné: bathed.

Ballotine: usually poultry boned, stuffed, and rolled.

Banane: banana.

Banon: village in the Alps of Provence, source of dried chestnut leaves traditionally used to wrap goat cheese, which was washed with eau-de-vie and aged for several months; today refers to various goat's-milk cheese or mixed goat-and cow's-milk cheese from the region, sometimes wrapped in fresh green or dried brown chestnut leaves and tied with raffia.

Bar: ocean fish, known as loup on the Mediterranean coast, louvine or loubine in the southwest, and barreau in Brittany; similar to sea bass.

Barbouillade: stuffed eggplant, or an eggplant stew; also, a combination of beans and artichokes.

Barbue: brill, a flatfish related to turbot, found in the Atlantic and the Mediterranean.

Barder: to cover poultry or meat with strips of uncured bacon, to add moisture while cooking.

Baron: hindquarters of lamb, including both legs.

Barquette: small boat; pastry shaped like a small boat.

Basilic: basil.

Basquaise, à la: Basque style; usually with ham or tomatoes or red peppers.

Bâtard, pain: bastard bread; traditional long, thin white loaf, larger than a baguette.

Batavia: salad green, a broad, flat-leafed lettuce.

Bâton: small white wand of bread, smaller than a baguette.

Bâtonnet: garnish of vegetables cut into small sticks.

Baudroie: in Provence, the name for monkfish or anglerfish, the large, firm-fleshed ocean fish also known as lotte and gigot de met: also a specialty of Provence, a fish soup that includes potstoes, onions, fresh mushrooms, garlic, fresh or dried orange zest, artichokes, tomatoes, and herbs.

Bavaroise: cold dessert; a rich custard made with cream and gelatin.

Bavette:skirt steak.

Baveuse: drooling; method of cooking an omelet so that it remains moist and juicy.

Béarnaise: tarragon-flavored sauce of egg yolks, butter, shallots, white wine, vinegar; and herbs.

Béatille: tidbit; dish combining various organ meats.

Bécasse: small bird, a woodcock.

Bécassine: small bird, a snipe.

Béchamel: white sauce, made with butter, flour, and milk, usually flavored with onion, bay leaf, pepper, and nutmeg.

Beignet: fritter or doughnut.

Beignet de fleur de courgette: batter-fried zucchini blossom; native to Provence and the Mediterranean, now popular all over France.

Belle Hélène (poire): classic dessert of chilled poached fruit (pear), served on ice cream and topped with hot chocolate sauce.

Bellevue, en: classic presentation of whole fish, usually in aspic on a platter.

Belon: river in Brittany identified with a prized flat-shelled (plate) oyster.

Belondines: Brittany creuses, or crinkle-shelled oysters that are affinées or finished off in the Belon river.

Berawecka, bierewecke, bireweck, birewecka: dense, moist Christmas fruit bread stuffed with dried pears, figs, and nuts; specialty of Kaysersberg, a village in Alsace.

Bercy: fish stock-based sauce thickened with flour and butter and flavored with white wine and shallots.

Bergamot (thé a la bergamote): name for both a variety of orange and of pear; (earl grey tea.).

Berrichonne: garnish of bruised cabbage, glazed baby onions, chestnuts, and lean bacon named for the old province of Berry.

Betterave: beet.

Beurre: butter.

demi-sel: butter (lightly salted).

blanc: classic reduced sauce of vinegar; white wine, shallots, and butter

cru: raw cream butter.

des Charentes: finest French butter, from the region of PoitouCharentes along the Atlantic coast.

de Montpellier: classic butter sauce seasoned with olive oil, herbs, garlic, and anchovies.

du cru: butter given the appellation d'origine contrôlée pedigree.

Echiré: brand of the finest French butter, preferred by French chefs, with an AOC pedigree, from the region

of Poitou-Charentes along the Atlantic coast.

noir: sauce of browned butter, lemon juice or vinegar, parsley, and sometimes capers; traditionally served

with raie, or skate.

noisette: lightly browned butter.

vierge: whipped butter sauce with salt, pepper, and lemon juice.

Bibelskäs, bibbelskäse: fresh cheese seasoned with horseradish, herbs, and spices; specialty of Alsace.

Biche: female deer.

Bien cuit(e): cooked well done.

Bière (en bouteille, à la pression): beer (bottled, on tap).

Bifteck: steak.

Bigarade: orange sauce.

Biggareau: red firm-fleshed variety of cherry

Bigorneau: periwinkle, tiny sea snail.

Bigoudène, à la: in the style of Bigouden, a province in Brittany; (pommes) baked slices of unpeeled potato; (ragôut) sausage stewed with bacon and potato.

Billy Bi, Billy By: cream of mussel soup, specialty of the Atlantic coast.

Biologique: organic.

Biscuit à la cuillère: ladyfinger.

Bistrotier: bistro owner.

Blanc (de poireau): white portion (of leek).

Blanc (de volaille): usually breast (of chicken).

Blanc-manger: chilled pudding of almond milk with gelatin.

Blanquette: classic mild stew of poached veal, lamb, chicken, or seafood, enriched with an egg and cream white sauce; supposedly a dish for convalescents.

Blé (noir): wheat (buckwheat).

Blette, bette: Swiss chard.

Bleu: blue; cooked rare, usually for steak. See also Truite au bleu.

Bleu d'Auvergne: a strong, firm and moist, flattened cylinder of blue-veined cheese made from cow's milk in the Auvergne, sold wrapped in foil; still made on some farms.

Bleu de Bresse: a cylinder of mild blue-veined cow's-milk cheese from the Bresse area in the Rhône-Alps region; industrially made.

Bleu de Gex: thick, savory blue-veined disc of cow's-milk cheese from the Jura; made in only a handful of small dairies in the département of the Ain.

Bleu des Causses: a firm, pungent, flat cylinder of blue-veined cow's-milk cheese, cured in cellars similar to those used in making Roquefort.

Blini: small thick pancake, usually eaten with caviar.

Boeuf à la ficelle: beef tied with string and poached in broth.

Boeuf à la mode: beef marinated and braised in red wine, served with carrots, mushrooms, onions, and turnips.

Boeuf gros sel: boiled beef, served with vegetables and coarse salt.

Bohémienne, à la: gypsy style; with rice, tomatoes, onions, sweet peppers, and paprika, in various combinations.

Boisson (non) comprise: drink (not) included.

Bolet: type of wild boletus mushroom. See Cèpe.

Bombe: molded, layered ice cream dessert.

Bonbon: candy or sweet.

Bon-chrétien: good Christian; a variety of pear, also known as poire William's.

Bondon: small cylinder of delicately flavored, mushroomy cow's-milk cheese made in the Neufchâtel area in Normandy.

Bonite: a tuna, or oceanic bonito.

Bonne femme (cuisine): meat garnish of bacon, potatoes, mushrooms, and onions; fish garnish of shallots, parsley, mushrooms, and potatoes; or white wine sauce with shallots, mushrooms, and lemon juice; (home-style cooking).

Bordelaise: Bordeaux style; also refers to a brown sauce of shallots, red wine, and bone marrow.

Bouchée: tiny mouthful; may refer to a bite-size pastry or to a vol-au-vent.

Boudouses: literally, to pout; tiny oysters from Brittany that refuse to grow to normal size; iodine rich and prized.

Bouchoteur: mussel fisherman; a dish containing mussels.

Boudin: technically a meat sausage, but generically any sausage-shaped mixture.

Boudin blanc: white sausage of veal, chicken, or pork.

Boudin noir: pork blood sausage.

Bouillabaisse: popular Mediterranean fish soup, most closely identified with Marseille, ideally prepared with the freshest local fish, preferably rockfish. Traditionally might include dozens of different fish, but today generally includes the specifically local rascasse (scorpion fish), Saint-Pierre (John Dory), fiéla (conger eel), galinette (gurnard or grondin), vive (weever), and baudroie (monkfish) cooked in a broth of water, olive oil, onions, garlic, tomatoes, parsley, and saffron. The fish is served separately from the broth, which is poured over garlic-rubbed toast, and seasoned with rouille which is stirred into the broth. Varied additions include boiled potatoes, orange peel, fennel, and shellfish. Expensive shellfish are often added in restaurant versions, but this practice is considered inauthentic.

Bouilliture: eel stew with red wine and prunes; specialty of the Poitou-Charentes on the Atlantic coast.

Bouillon: stock or broth.

Boulangère, à la: in the style of the baker's wife; meat or poultry baked or braised with onions and potatoes.

Boule: ball; a large round loaf of white bread, also known as a miche.

Boule de Picoulat: meatball from Languedoc, combining beef, pork, garlic, and eggs, traditionally served with cooked white beans.

Boulette d'Avesnes: pepper-and-tarragon-flavored cheese, made from visually defective Maroilles, formed into a cone, and colored red with paprika; named for Avesnes, a village in the North.

Bouquet: large reddish shrimp. See also Crevette rose.

Bouquet garni: typically fresh whole parsley bay leaf and thyme tied together with string and tucked into stews; the package is removed prior to serving.

Bouquetière: garnished with bouquets of vegetables.

Bourdaloue: hot poached fruit, sometimes wrapped in pastry often served with vanilla custard; often pear.

Bourgeoise, à la: with carrots, onions, braised lettuce, celery and bacon.

Bourguignonne, à la: Burgundy style; often with red wine, onions, mushrooms, and bacon.

Bouribot: spicy red-wine duck stew.

Bourride: a Mediterranean fish soup that generally includes a mixture of small white fish, onions, tomatoes, garlic, herbs, and olive oil, thickened with egg yolks and aïoli (garlic mayonnaise); there are many variations.

Bourriole: rye flour pancake, both sweet and savory; specialty of the Auvergne.

Boutargue, poutargue: salty paste prepared from dried mullet or tuna roe, mashed with oil; specialty of Provence.

Bouton de culotte: trouser button; tiny buttons of goat cheese from the Lyon area; traditionally made on farms, aged until rock hard and pungent; today found in many forms, from soft and young to hard and brittle.

Braiser: to braise; to cook meat by browning in fat, then simmering in covered dish with small amount of liquid.

Branche, en: refers to whole vegetables or herbs.

Brandade (de morue): a warm garlicky purée (of salt cod) with milk or cream or oil, and sometimes mashed potatoes; specialty of Provence; currently used to denote a variety of flavored mashed potato dishes.

Brassado: a doughnut that is boiled, then baked, much like a bagel; specialty of Provence.

Brayaude, gigot: leg of lamb studded with garlic, cooked in white wine, and served with red beans, braised cabbage, or chestnuts.

Brebis (fromage de): sheep (sheep's-milk cheese).

Brési (Breuzi): smoked, salted, and dried beef from the Jura.

Bretonne, à la: in the style of Brittany; a dish served with white beans; or may refer to a white wine sauce with carrots, leeks, and celery.

Bretzel: a pretzel; specialty of Alsace.

Brie de Meaux: king of cheese, the flat wheel of cheese made only with raw cow's milk and aged at least four weeks; from Meaux, just east of Paris; brie made with pasteurized milk does not have the right to be called brie de Meaux.

Brie de Melun: smaller than brie de Meaux, another raw-cow's-milk cheese, aged at least one month, with a crackly rust-colored rind.

Brillat-Savarin: (1755-1826) famed gastronome, coiner of food aphorisms, and author of The Physiology of Taste; the high-fat, supple cow's-milk cheese from Normandy is named for him.

Brioche: buttery egg-enriched yeast bread.

Brocciu: soft, young, sheep's milk cheese from Corsica.

Broche, à la: spit-roasted.

Brochet(on): freshwater pike (small pike).

Brochette: cubes of meat or fish and vegetables on a skewer.

Brocoli: broccoli

Brouet: old term for soup.

Brouillade: a mixture of ingredients as in a stew or soup; also, scrambled eggs.

Brouillé(s): scrambled, usually eggs.

Brousse: a very fresh and unsalted (thus bland) sheep's- or goat's-milk cheese, not unlike Italian ricotta; specialty of Nice and Marseille.

Broutard: young goat.

Brugnon: nectarine.

Brûlé(e): burned; usually refers to caramelization.

Brunoise: tiny diced vegetables.

Brut: very dry or sugarless, particularly in reference to Champagne.

Buccin: large sea snail or whelk, also called bulot.

Bûche de Noël: Christmas cake shaped like a log (bûche), a sponge cake often flavored with chestnuts and chocolate.

Buffet froid: variety of dishes served cold, sometimes from a buffet.

Bugne: deep-fried yeast-dough fritter or doughnut dusted with confectioner's sugar; popular in and around Lyon before Easter.

Buisson: bush; generally a dish including vegetables arranged like a bush; classically a crayfish presentation.

Bulot: large sea snail or whelk, also called buccin.

Buron: traditional hut where cheese is made in the Auvergne mountains.

C

Cabécou(s): small, round goat's-milk cheese from the southwest, sometimes made with a mix of goat's and cow's milk.

Cabillaud: fresh codfish, also currently called morue: known as doguette in the North, bakalua in the Basque region, eglefin in Provence.

Cabri: young goat.

Cacahouète, cacahouette, cacachuète: prepared peanut--roasted, dry roasted, or salted. A raw peanut is arachide

Cacao: cocoa; powdered cocoa.

Cachat: a very strong goat cheese; generally a blend of various ends of leftover cheese, mixed with seasonings that might include salt, pepper, brandy and garlic, and aged in a crock; specialty of Provence.

Caen, à la mode de: in the style of Caen, a town in Normandy; a dish cooked in Calvados and white wine and/or cider.

Café: coffee, as well as a type of eating place where coffee is served.

allongé: weakened espresso, often served with a small pitcher of hot water so clients may thin the coffee

themselves.

au lait or crème: espresso with warmed or steamed milk.

déca or décaféiné: decaffeinated coffee.

express: plain black espresso.

faux: decaffeinated coffee.

filtre: filtered American-style coffee (not available at all cafés).

glacé: iced coffee.

liègeois: iced coffee served with ice cream (optional) and whipped cream; also coffee ice cream with

whipped cream.

noir: plain black espresso.

noisette: espresso with tiny amount of milk.

serré: extra-strong espresso, made with half the normal amount of water.

Caféine: caffeine.

Cagouille: on the Atlantic coast, name for small petit gris land snail, or escargot.

Caille: quail.

Caillé: clotted or curdled; curds of milk.

Caillette: round pork sausage including chopped spinach or Swiss chard, garlic, onions, parsley, bread, and egg and wrapped in crépine (caul fat); served hot or cold; specialty of northern Provence.

Caisse: cash register; or cash desk.

Caissette: literally, small box; bread, brioche, or chocolate shaped like a small box.

Cajasse: a sort of clafoutis from the Dordogne, made with black cherries.

Cajou: cashew nut.

Calisson d'Aix: Delicate, diamond-shaped Provençal sweet prepared with almonds, candied oranges, melon or abricots, egg white, sugar, and confiture of oranges or apricots.

Calmar: small squid, similar to encornet; with interior transparent cartilage instead of a bone. Also called chipiron in the southwest.

Calvados (apple brandy): a département in Normandy known for the famed apple brandy.

Camembert (de Normandie): village in Normandy that gives its name to a supple, fragrant cheese made of cow's milk.

Camomille: camomile, herb tea.

Campagnard(e) (assiette): country-style, rustic; (an informal buffet of cold meats, terrines, etc.).

Campagne, à la: country-style.

Canada: cooking apple.

Canapé: originally a slice of crustless bread; now also used to refer to a variety of hors d'oeuvre consisting of toasted or fried bread, spread with forcemeat, cheese, and other flavorings.

Canard: duck.

Canard à la presse: roast duck served with a sauce of juices obtained from pressing the carcass, combined with red wine and Cognac.

Canard sauvage: wild duck, usually mallard.

Cancoillotte: spreadable cheese from the Jura; usually blended with milk, spices, or white wine when served.

Caneton: young male duck.

Canette: young female duck.

Cannelle: cinnamon.

Cannois, à la: in the style of Cannes.

Canon: the marrow bone

Cantal: large cylindrical cheese made in the Auvergne from shredded and pressed curds of cow's milk.

Cantalon: smaller version of Cantal.

Cantaloup: cantaloupe melon.

Capilotade: basically any leftover meat or poultry cooked to tenderness in a well-reduced sauce.

Capre: caper.

Capucine: nasturtium; the leaves and flowers are used in salads.

Carafe (d'eau): pitcher (of tap water). House wine is often offered in a carafe. A full carafe contains one liter; a demi-carafe contains half a liter; a quart contains one-fourth of a liter.

Caraïbes: Caribbean, usually denotes chocolate from the Caribbean.

Caramelisé: cooked with high heat to brown the sugar and heighten flavor.

Carbonnade: braised beef stew prepared with beer and onions; specialty of the North; also refers to a cut of beef.

Cardamome: cardamon.

Carde: white rib, or stalk, portion of Swiss chard.

Cardon: cardoon; large celery-like vegetable in the artichoke family, popular in Lyon, Provence, and the Mediterranean area.

Cargolade: a copious mixed grill of snails, lamb, pork sausage, and sometimes blood sausage, cooked over vine clippings; specialty of Catalan, an area of southern Languedoc.

Carotte: carrot.

Carpe: carp.

Carpe à la juive: braised marinated carp in aspic.

Carré d'agneau: rack (ribs) or loin of lamb; also crown roast.

Carré de port: rack (ribs) or loin of pork; also crown roast.

Carré de veau: rack (ribs) or loin of veal; also crown roast.

Carrelet: see Plaice.

Carte, à la: menu (dishes, which are charged for individually, selected from a restaurant's full list of offerings).

Carte promotionelle or conseillée: a simple and inexpensive fixed-price meal.

Carvi (grain de): caraway (seed).

Cary: curry.

Casher: kosher.

Casse-croûte: break bread; slang for snack.

Casseron: cuttlefish.

Cassis (crème de): black currant (black currant liqueur).

Cassolette: usually a dish presented in a small casserole.

Cassonade: soft brown sugar; demerara sugar.

Cassoulet: popular southwestern casserole of white beans, including various combinations of sausages, duck, pork, lamb, mutton, and goose.

Cavaillon: a town in Provence, known for its small, flavorful orange-fleshed melons.

Caviar d'aubergine: cold seasoned eggplant puree.

Caviar du Puy: green lentils from Le Puy, in the Auvergne.

Cébette: a mild, leek-like vegetable, sliced and eaten raw, in salads; native to Provence, but seen occasionally outside the region.

Cebiche: seviche; generally raw fish marinated in lime juice and other seasonings.

Cédrat: a variety of Mediterranean lemon.

Céleri (en branche): celery (stalk).

Céleri-rave: celeriac, celery root.

Céleri remoulade: popular first-course bistro dish of shredded celery root with tangy mayonnaise.

Cendre (sous la): ash (cooked by being buried in embers); some cheeses made in wine-producing regions are aged in the ash of burned rootstocks.

Cèpe: large, meaty wild boletus mushroom.

Cerdon: Bubbly (pétillant) wine (red or white?) from the Bugey

Céréale: cereal.

Cerf: stag, or male deer.

Cerfeuil: chervil.

Cerise: cherry.

Cerise noire: black cherry.

Cerneau: walnut meat.

Cervelas: garlicky cured pork sausage; now also refers to fish and seafood sausage.

Cervelle(s): brain(s), of calf or lamb.

Cervelle de canut: a soft, fresh herbed cheese known as silkworker's brains; specialty of Lyon.

Céteau(x): small ocean fish, solette or baby sole, found in the gulf of Gascony and along the Atlantic coast.

Cévenole, à la: Cevennes style; garnished with chestnuts or mushrooms.

Chalutier: trawler; any flat fish caught with a trawl.

Champêtre: rustic; describes a simple presentation of a variety of ingredients.

Champignon: mushroom.

à la bague: parasol mushroom with a delicate flavor; also called coulemelle, cocherelle, and grisotte.

de bois: wild mushroom, from the woods.

de Paris: most common cultivated mushroom.

sauvage: wild mushroom.

Champvallon, côtelette d'agneau: traditional dish of lamb chops baked in alternating layers of potatoes and onions; named for a village in northern Burgundy.

Chanterelle: prized pale orange wild mushroom; also called girolle. Chantilly: sweetened whipped cream.

Chaource: soft and fruity cylindrical cow's-milk cheese, with a 50 percent fat content; takes its name from a village in Champagne.

Chapeau: hat; small round loaf, topped with a little dough hat.

Chapelure: bread crumbs.

Chapon: capon, or castrated chicken.

Chapon de mer: Mediterranean fish, in the rascasse or scorpion-fish family.

Charbon de bois, au: charcoal-grilled.

Charentais: variety of sweet cantaloupe, or melon, originally from the Charentes, on the Atlantic coast.

Charlotte: classic dessert in which a dish is lined with ladyfingers, filled with custard or other filling, and served cold; in the hot version, the dish is lined with crustless white bread sautéed in butter, filled with fruit compote and baked. Also a potato variety.

Charolais: area of Burgundy; light colored cattle producing high-quality beef; also, firm white cylinder of cheese made with goat's or cow's milk, or a mixture of the two.

Chartreuse: dish of braised partridge and cabbage; also herb and spiced-based liqueur made by the Chartreuse monks in the Savoie.

Chasseur: hunter; also, sauce with white wine, mushrooms, shallots, tomatoes, and herbs.

Châtaigne: chestnut, smaller than marron, with multiple nut meats.

Chateaubriand: thick filet steak, traditionally served with sautéed potatoes and a sauce of white wine, dark beef stock, butter, shallots, and herbs, or with a béarnaise sauce.

Châtelaine, à la: elaborate garnish of artichoke hearts and chestnut purée, braised lettuce, and sautéed potatoes.

Chaud(e): hot or warm.

Chaud-froid: hot-cold; cooked poultry dish served cold, usually covered with a cooked sauce, then with aspic.

Chaudrée: Atlantic fish stew, often including sole, skate, small eels, potatoes, butter, white wine, and seasoning.

Chausson: a filled pastry turnover, sweet or savory.

Chemise, en: wrapped with pastry.

Cheval: horse, horse meat.

Cheveux d'ange: angel's hair; thin vermicelli pasta.

Chèvre (fromage de): goat (goat's-milk cheese).

Chevreau: young goat.

Chevreuil: young roe buck or roe deer; venison.

Chevrier: small, pale green, dried kidney-shaped bean, a type of flageolet.

Chichi: doughnut-like, deep-fried bread spirals sprinkled with sugar; often sold from trucks at open-air markets; specialty of Provence and the Mediterranean.

Chicons du Nord: Belgian endive.

Chicorée (frisée): a bitter salad green (curly endive); also chicory, a coffee substitute.Chicorée de Bruxelles: Belgian endive.

Chiffonnade: shredded herbs and vegetables, usually green.

Chinchard: also called saurel, scad or horse mackerel; Atlantic and Mediterranean fish similar to mackerel.

Chipiron (à l'encre): southwestern name for small squid, or encornet (in its own ink).

Chipolata: small sausage.

Chips, pommes: potato chips.

Chocolat: chocolate.

amer: bittersweet chocolate, with very little sugar.

au lait: milk chocolate.

chaud: hot chocolate.

mi-amer: bittetsweet chocolate, with more sugar than chocolat amer.

noir: used interchangeably with chocolat amer.

Choix, au: a choice; usually meaning one may choose from several offerings.

Chorizo: highly spiced Spanish sausage.

Choron, sauce: béarnaise sauce with tomatoes.

Chou: cabbage.

Chou de Bruxelles: brussels sprout.

Chou de mer: sea kale.

Chou de Milan: Savoy cabbage.

Chou-fleur: cauliflower.

Chou frisé: kale.

Chou-navet: rutabaga.

Chou-rave: kohlrabi.

Chou rouge: red cabbage.

Chou vert: curly green Savoy cabbage.

Choucas: jackdaw; European blackbird, like a crow, but smaller.

Choucroute (nouvelle): sauerkraut (the season's first batch of sauerkraut, still crunchy and slightly acidic); also main dish of sauerkraut, various sausages, bacon, and pork, served with potatoes; specialty of Alsace and brasseries all over France.

Choux, pâte à: cream pastry dough.

Ciboule: spring onion, or scallion.

Ciboulette: chives.

Cidre: bottled, mildly alcoholic cider, either apple or pear.

Cigale de mer: sea cricket; tender, crayfish-like, blunt-nosed rock lobster.

Cîteaux: creamy, ample disc of cow's-milk cheese with a rust-colored rind made by the Cistercian monks at the Abbaye de Cîteaux in Burgundy.

Citron: lemon.

Citron, orange, or pamplemousse pressé(e): lemon, orange, or grapefruit juice served with a carafe of tap water and sugar; for sweetening to taste.

Citron vert: lime.

Citronnelle: lemon grass, an oriental herb; also lemon balm (mèlisse).

Citrouille: pumpkin, gourd. Also called courge, potiron, potimarron.

Cive: spring onion.

Civelle: spaghetti-like baby eel, also called pibale.

Civet: stew, usually of game traditionally thickened with blood.

Civet de lièvre: jugged hare, or wild rabbit stew.

Civet de tripes d'oies: a stew of goose innards, sautéed in fat with onions, shallots, and garlic, then cooked in wine vinegar and diluted with water, and thickened with goose blood; from Gascony.

Clafoutis: traditional custard tart, usually made with black cherries; specialty of the southwest.

Claire: oyster; also a designation given to certain oysters to indicate they have been put in claires, or oyster beds in salt marshes, where they are fattened up for several months before going to market.

Clamart: Paris suburb once famous for its green peas; today a garnish of peas.

Clémentine: small tangerine, from Morocco or Spain.

Clouté: studded with.

Clovisse: variety of very tiny clam, generally from the Mediterranean.

Cocherelle: parasol mushroom with a delicate flavor; also called champignon à la bague, coulemelle, and grisotte.

Cochon (de lait): pig (suckling).

Cochonnaille(s): pork product(s); usually an assortment of sausages and/or pâtés served as a first course.

Coco blanc (rouge): type of small white (red) shell bean, both fresh and dried, popular in Provence, where it is a traditional ingredient of the vegetable soupe au pistou; also, coconut.

Coco de Paimpol: Cream-colored shell bean striated with purple, from Brittany, in season from July to November; the first bean in France to receive AOC.

Cocotte: a high-sided cooking pot (casserole) with a lid; a small ramekin dish for baking and serving eggs and other preparations.

Coeur: heart.

Coeur de filet: thickest (and best) part of beef filet, usually cut into chateaubriand steaks.

Coeur de palmier: delicate shoots of the palm tree, generally served with a vinaigrette as an hors d'oeuvre.

Coffre: chest; refers to the body of a lobster or other crustacean, or of a butchered animal.

Coiffe: traditional lacy hat; sausage patty wrapped in caul fat.

Coing: quince.

Col vert: wild (green-collared) mallard duck.

Colbert: method of preparing fish, coating with egg and bread crumbs and then frying.

Colère, en: anger; method of presenting fish in which the tail is inserted in the mouth, so it appears agitated.

Colin: hake, ocean fish related to cod; known as merluche in the North, merluchon in Brittany, bardot or merlan along the Mediterranean.

Colombe: dove.

Colombo: A mixture of spices, like a curry powder, used to season shellfish, meat or poultry. Like curry, the mix may vary, but usually contains tumeric, rice powder, coriander, pepper, cumin and fenugreek.

Colza: rape, a plant of the mustard family, colorful yellow field crop grown throughout France, usually pressed into vegetable (rapeseed) oil.

Commander avant le repas, à: a selection of desserts that should be ordered when selecting first and main courses, as they require longer cooking.

Complet: filled up, with no more room for customers.

Compote:stewed fresh or dried fruit.

Compotier: fruit bowl; also stewed ftuit.

Compris: see Service (non) compris.

Comté: large wheel of cheese of cooked and pressed cow's milk; the best is made of raw milk and aged for six months, still made by independent cheesemakers in the Jura mountains.

Concassé: coarsely chopped.

Concombre: cucumber.

Conférence: a variety of pear.

Confiserie: candy, sweet, or confection; a candy shop.

Confit: a preserve, generally pieces of duck, goose, or pork cooked and preserved in their own fat; also fruit or vegetables preserved in sugar; alcohol, or vinegar.

Confiture: jam.

Confiture de vieux garçon: varied fresh fruits macerated in alcohol.

Congeler: to freeze.

Congre: conger eel; a large ocean fish resembling a freshwater eel (anguille); often used in fish stews.

Conseillé: advised, recommended.

Consommation(s): consumption; drinks, meals, and snacks available in a cafe or bar.

Consommé: clear soup.

Contre-filet: cut of sirloin taken above the loin on either side of the backbone, tied for roasting or braising (can also be cut for grilling).

Conversation: puff pastry tart with sugar glazing and an almond or cream filling.

Copeau(x): shaving(s), such as from chocolate, cheese, or vegetables.

Coq (au vin): mature male chicken (stewed in wine sauce).

Coq au vin jaune: chicken cooked in the sherry-like vin jaune of the region, with cream, butter; and tarragon, often garnished with morels; specialty of the Jura.

Coq de bruyère: wood grouse.

Coque: cockle, a tiny, mild-flavored, clam-like shellfish.

Coque, à la: served in a shell. See Oeuf à la coque.

Coquelet: young male chicken.

Coquillage(s): shellfish.

Coquille: shell.

Coquille Saint-Jacques: sea scallop.

Corail: coral-colored egg sac, found in scallops, spiny lobster, and crayfish.

Corb: a Mediterranean bluefish.

Coriandre: coriander; either the fresh herb or dried seeds.

Corne d'abondance: horn of plenty; dark brown wild mushroom, also called trompette de la mort.

Cornet: cornet-shaped; usually refers to foods rolled conically; also an ice cream cone, and a conical pastry filled with cream.

Cornichon: gherkin; tiny tart cucumber pickle.

Côte d'agneau: lamb chop.

Côte de boeuf: beef blade or rib steak.

Côte de veau: veal chop.

Côtelette: thin chop or cutlet.

Cotriade: a fish stew, usually including mackerel, whiting, conger eel, sorrel, butter, potatoes, and vinegar; specialty of Brittany.

Cou d'oie (de canard) farci: neck skin of goose (of duck), stuffed with meat and spices, much like sausage.

Coulant: refers to runny cheese.

Coulemelle: parasol mushroom with a delicate flavor; also called champignon à la bague, cocherelle, and grisotte.

Coulibiac: classic, elaborate, hot Russian pâté, usually layers of salmon, rice, hard-cooked eggs, mushrooms, and onions, wrapped in brioche.

Coulis: purée of raw or cooked vegetables or fruit.

Coulommiers: town in the Ile-de-France that gives its name to a supple, fragrant disc of cow's-milk cheese, slightly larger than Camembert.

Courge (muscade): generic term for squash or gourd (bright orange pumpkin).

Courgette: zucchini.

Couronne: crown; ring or circle, usually of bread.

Court-bouillon: broth, or aromatic poaching liquid.

Couscous: granules of semolina, or hard wheat flour; also refers to a hearty North African dish that includes the steamed grain, broth, vegetables, meats, hot sauce, and sometimes chickpeas and raisins.

Couteau: razor clam.

Couvert: a place setting, including dishes, silver, glassware, and linen.

Couverture: bittersweet chocolate high in cocoa butter; used for making the shiniest chocolates.

Crabe: crab.

Crambe: sea kale, or chou de mer.

Cramique: brioche with raisins or currants; specialty of the North.

Crapaudine: preparation of grilled poultry or game bird with backbone removed.

Craquant: crunchy.

Craquelot: smoked herring.

Crécy: a dish garnished with carrots.

Crémant: sparkling wine.

Crème: cream.

aigre: sour cream.

anglaise: light egg-custard cream.

brulee: rich custard dessert with a top of caramelized sugar.

caramel: vanilla custard with caramel sauce.

catalane: creamy anise flavored custard from the southern Languedoc.

chantilly: sweetened whipped cream.

épaisse: thick cream.

fleurette: liquid heavy cream.

fouettée: whipped cream.

fraîche: thick sour; heavy cream.

pâtissière: custard filling for pastries and cakes.

plombières: custard filled with fresh fruits and egg whites.

Crêpe: thin pancake.

Crêpes Suzette: hot crêpe dessert flamed with orange liqueur.

Crépine: caul fat.

Crépinette: traditionally, a small sausage patty wrapped in caul fat; today boned poultry wrapped in caul fat.

Cresson(ade): watercress (watercress sauce).

Crête (de coq): (cock's) comb.

Creuse: elongated, crinkle-shelled oyster.

Crevette: shrimp.

Crevette grise: tiny soft-fleshed shrimp that turns gray when cooked.

Crevette rose: small firm-fleshed shrimp that turns red when cooked; when large, called bouquet.

Crique: potato pancake from the Auvergne.

Criste marine: edible algae.

Croque au sel, à la: served raw, with a small bowl of coarse salt for seasoning; tiny purple artichokes and cherry tomatoes are served this way.

Croque-madame: open-face sandwich of ham and cheese with an egg grilled on top.

Croque-monsieur: toasted ham and cheese sandwich.

Croquembouche: choux pastry rounds filled with cream and coated with a sugar glaze, often served in a conical tower at special events.

Croquette: ground meat, fish, fowl, or vegetables bound with eggs or sauce, shaped into various forms, usually coated in bread crumbs, and deep fried.

Crosne: small, unusual tuber; with a subtle artichoke-like flavor; known as a Chinese or Japanese artichoke.

Crottin de Chavignol: small flattened ball of goat's-milk cheese from the Loire valley.Croustade: usually small pastry-wrapped dish; also regional southwestern pastry filled with prunes and/or apples.

Croûte (en): crust; (in) pastry.

Croûte de sel (en): (in) a salt crust.

Croûtons: small cubes of toasted or fried bread.

Cru: raw.

Crudité: raw vegetable.

Crustacé(s): crustacean(s).

Cuillière (à la): (to be eaten with a) spoon.

Cuisse (de poulet): leg or thigh (chicken drumstick).

Cuissot, cuisseau: haunch of veal, venison, or wild boar.

Cuit(e): cooked.

Cul: haunch or rear; usually of red meat.

Culotte: rump, usually of beef.

Cultivateur: truck farmer; fresh vegetable soup.

Curcuma: turmeric.

Cure-dent: toothpick

D

Damier: checkerboard; arrangement of vegetables or other ingredients in alternating colors like a checkerboard; also, a cake with such a pattern of light and dark pieces.

Darne: a rectangular portion of fish filet; also a fish steak, usually of salmon.

Dariole: truncated cone or oval-shaped baking mold.

Dartois: puff pastry rectangles layered with an almond cream filling as a dessert, or stuffed with meat or fish as an hors-d'oeuvre.

Datte (de mer): date (date-shaped prized wild Mediterranean mussel).

Daube: a stew, usually of beef lamb, or mutton, with red wine, onions, and/or tomatoes; specialty of many regions, particularly Provençe and the Atlantic coast.

Dauphin: cow's-milk cheese shaped like a dauphin, or dolphin; from the North.

Daurade: sea bream, similar to porgy, the most prized of a group of ocean fish known as dorade.

Décaféiné or déca: decaffeinated coffee.

Décortiqué(e): shelled or peeled.

Dégustation: tasting or sampling.

Déjeuner: lunch.

Demi: half; also, an 8-ounce (250 ml) glass of beer; also, a half-bottle of wine.

Demi-deuil: in half mourning; poached (usually chicken) with sliced truffles inserted under the skin; also, sweetbreads with a truffled white sauce.

Demi-glace: concentrated beef-based sauce lightened with consommé, or a lighter brown sauce.

Demi-sec: usually refers to goat cheese that is in the intermediate aging stage between one extreme of soft and fresh and the other extreme of hard and aged.

Demi-sel (buerre): lightly salted (butter).

Demi-tasse: small cup; after-dinner coffee cup.

Demoiselle de canard: marinated raw duck tenderloin; also called mignon de canard.

Demoiselles de Cherbourg: small lobsters from the town of Cherbourg in Normandy, cooked in a court-bouillon and served in cooking juices. Also, restaurant name for Breton lobsters weighing 300 to 400 grams (10 to 13 ounces).

Dentelle: lace; a portion of meat or fish so thinly sliced as to suggest a resemblance. Also, large lace-thin sweet crêpe.

Dent, denté: one of a generic group of Mediterranean fish known as dorade, similar to porgy.

Dents-de-lion: dandelion salad green; also called pissenlit.

Dés: diced pieces.

Désossé: boned.

Diable: devil; method of preparing poultry with a peppery sauce, often mustard-based. Also, a round pottery casserole.

Dieppoise: Dieppe style; usually white wine, mussels, shrimp, mushrooms, and cream.

Digestif: general term for spirits served after dinner; such as Armagnac, Cognac, marc, eau-de-vie.

Dijonnaise: Dijon style; usually with mustard.

Dinde: turkey hen.

Dindon(neau): turkey (young turkey).

Dîner: dinner; to dine.

Diot: pork sausage cooked in wine, often served with a potato gratin; specialty of the Savoie.

Discrétion, à: on menus usually refers to wine, which may be consumed--without limit--at the customer's discretion.

Dodine: cold stuffed boned poultry.

Dorade: generic name for group of ocean fish, the most prized of which is daurade, similar to porgy.

Doré: browned until golden.

Dos: back; also the meatiest portion of fish.

Doucette: see Mâche.

Douceur: sweet or dessert.

Douillon, duillon: a whole pear wrapped and cooked in pastry; specialty of Normandy.

Doux, douce: sweet.

Doyenné de Comice: a variety of pear.

Dugléré: white flour-based sauce with shallots, white wine, tomatoes, and parsley.

Dur (oeuf): hard (hard-cooked egg).

Duxelles: minced mushrooms and shallots sautéed in butter, then mixed with cream.

E

Eau du robinet: tap water.

Eau de source: spring water.

Eau-de-vie: literally, water of life; brandy, usually fruit-based.

Eau gazeuse: carbonated water.

Eau minérale: mineral water.

Echalote (gris): shallot (prized purplish shallot) elongated.

Echalote banane: banana-shaped onion.

Echine: sparerib.

Eclade de moules: mussels roasted beneath a fire of pine needles; specialty of the Atlantic coast.

Ecrasé: crushed; with fruit, pressed to release juice.

Ecrevisse: freshwater crayfish.

Effiloché: frayed, shredded.

Eglantine: wild rose jam; specialty of Alsace.

Eglefin, égrefin, aiglefin: small fresh haddock, a type of cod.

Elzekaria: soup made with green beans, cabbage, and garlic; specialty of the Basque region.

Embeurré de chou: buttery cooked cabbage.

Emincé: thin slice, usually of meat.

Emmental: large wheel of cooked and pressed cow's-milk cheese, very mild in flavor, with large interior holes; made in large commercial dairies in the Jura.

Emondé: skinned by blanching, such as almonds, tomatoes.

En sus: see Service en sus.

Enchaud: pork filet with garlic; specialty of Dordogne.

Encornet: small illex squid, also called calmar; in Basque region called chipiron.

Encre: squid ink.

Endive: Belgian endive; also chicory salad green.

Entier, entière: whole, entire.

Entrecôte: beef rib steak.

Entrecôte maître d'hôtel: beef rib steak with sauce of red wine and shallots.

Entrée: first course.

Entremets: dessert.

Epais(se): thick.

Epaule: shoulder (of veal, lamb, mutton, or pork).

Épeautre : poor man's wheat from Provence; spelt.

Eperlan: smelt or whitebait, usually fried, often imported but still found in the estuaries of the Loire.

Epi de maïs: ear of sweet corn.

Epice: spice.

Epigramme: classic dish of grilled breaded lamb chop and a piece of braised lamb breast shaped like a chop, breaded, and grilled; crops up on modern menus as an elegant dish of breaded and fried baby lamb chops paired with lamb sweetbreads and tongue.

Epinard: spinach.

Epine vinette: highbush cranberry.

Epoisses: village in Burgundy that gives its name to a buttery disc of cow's milk cheese with a strong, smooth taste and rust-colored rind.

Epoisses blanc: fresh white Epoisses cheese.

Equille: sand eel, a long silvery fish that buries itself in the sand; eaten fried on the Atlantic coast.

Escabèche: a Provençal and southwestern preparation of small fish, usually sardines or rouget, in which the fish are browned in oil, then marinated in vinegar and herbs and served very cold. Also, raw fish marinated in lemon or lime juice and herbs.

Escalivada: Catalan roasted vegetables, usually sweet peppers, eggplant and onions.

Escalope: thin slice of meat or fish.

Escargot: land snail.

Escargot de Bourgogne: land snail prepared with butter; garlic, and parsley.

Escargot petit-gris: small land snail.

Escarole: bitter salad green of the chicory family with thick broad-lobed leaves, found in both flat and round heads.

Espadon: swordfish found in the gulf of Gascony, Atlantic, and Mediterranean.

Espagnole, à l': Spanish style; with tomatoes, peppers, onions, and garlic.

Esqueixada: in Catalan literally means shredded; a shredded salt cod salad.

Estival: summer, used to denote seasonality of ingredients.

Estoficado: a purée-like blend of dried codfish, olive oil, tomatoes, sweet peppers, black olives, potatoes, garlic, onions, and herbs; also called stockfish niçoise: specialty of Nice.

Estofinado: a purée-like blend of dried codfish, potatoes, garlic, parsley, eggs, walnut oil, and milk, served with triangles of toast; specialty of the Auvergne.

Estouffade à la provençale: beef stew with onions, garlic, carrots, and orange zest.

Estragon: tarragon.

Etoffé: stuffed.

Etoile: star; star-shaped.

Etouffé; étuvé: literally smothered; method of cooking very slowly in a tightly covered pan with almost no liquid.

Etrille: small swimming crab.

Express: espresso coffee.

F

Façon (à ma): (my) way of preparing a dish.

Fagot: bundle; meat shaped into a small ball.

Faisan(e): pheasant.

Faisandé: game that has been hung to age.

Fait: usually refers to a cheese that has been well aged and has character---runny if it's a Camembert, hard and dry if it's a goat cheese; also means ready to eat.

Fait, pas trop: refers to a cheese that has been aged for a shorter time and is blander; also for a cheese that will ripen at home.

Falette: veal breast stuffed with bacon and vegetables, browned, and poached in broth; specialty of the Auvergne.

Fanes: green tops of root vegetables such as carrots, radishes, turnips.

Far: Breton sweet or savory pudding-cakes; the most common, similar to clafoutis from the Dordogne, is made with prunes.

Farci(e): stuffed.

Farigoule(tte): Provençal name for wild thyme.

Farine: flour.

complète: whole wheat flour.

d'avoine: oat flour.

de blé: wheat flour; white flour.

de maïs: corn flour.

de sarrasin: buckwheat flour.

de seigle: rye flour.

de son: bran flour.

Faux-filet: sirloin steak.

Favorite d'artichaut: classic vegetable dish of artichoke stuffed with asparagus, covered with a cheese sauce, and browned.

Favou(ille): in Provence, tiny male (female) crab often used in soups.

Fenouil: fennel.

Fer à cheval: horseshoe; a baguette that has that shape.

Féra, feret: salmon-like lake fish, found in Lac Léman, in the Morvan, in Burgundy, and in the Auvergne.

Ferme (fermier: fermière): farm (farmer); in cheese, refers to farm-made cheese, often used to mean raw-milk cheese; in chickens, refers to free-range chickens.

Fermé: closed.

Fernkase: young cheese shaped like a flying saucer and sprinkled with coarsely ground pepper; specialty of Alsace.

Feu de bois, au: cooked over a wood fire.s

Feuille de chêne: oak-leaf lettuce.

Feuille de vigne: vine leaf.

Feuilletage (en): (in) puff pastry.

Feuilletée: puff pastry.

Féves (févettes): broad, fava, coffee, or cocoa bean (miniature beans); also, the porcelain figure baked into the 12th night cake, or, galette des rois.

Fiadone: Corsican flan made from cheese and oranges.

Ficelle (boeuf à la): string; (beef suspended on a string and poached in broth). Also, small thin baguette. Also, a small bottle of wine, as in carafe of Beaujolais.

Ficelle picarde: thin crêpe wrapped around a slice of ham and topped with a cheesy cream sauce; specialty of Picardy, in the North.

Figue: fig.

Financier: small rectangular almond cake.

Financière: Madiera sauce with truffle juice.

Fine de claire: elongated crinkle-shelled oyster that stays in fattening beds (claires) a minimum of two months.

Fines herbes: mixture of herbs, usually chervil, parsley, chives, tarragon.

Flageolet: small white or pale green kidney-shaped dried bean.

Flamande, à la: Flemish style; usually with stuffed cabbage leaves, carrots, turnips, potatoes, and bacon.

Flamber: to burn off the alcohol by igniting. Usually the brandies or other liqueurs to be flambéed are warmed first, then lit as they are poured into the dish.

Flamiche (au Maroilles): a vegetable tart with rich bread dough crust, commonly filled with leeks, cream, and cheese; specialty of Picardy, in the North; (filled with cream, egg, butter, and Maroilles cheese).

Flammekueche: thin-crusted savory tart, much like a rectangular pizza, covered with cream, onions, and bacon; also called tarte flambée; specialty of Alsace.

Flan: sweet or savory tart. Also, a crustless custard pie.

Flanchet: flank of beef or veal, used generally in stews.

Flagnarde, flaugnarde, flognarde: hot, fruit-filled batter cake made with eggs, flour, milk, and butter, and sprinkled with sugar before serving; specialty of the southwest.

Flétan: halibut, found in the English Channel and North Sea.

Fleur (de sel): flower (fine, delicate sea salt, from Brittany or the Camargue).

Fleur de courgette: zucchini blossom.

Fleuron: puff pastry crescent.

Florentine: with spinach. Also, a cookie of nougatine and candied fruit brushed with a layer of chocolate.

Flûte: flute; usually a very thin baguette; also, form of champagne glass.

Foie: liver.

Foie blond de volaille: chicken liver; also sometimes a chicken-liver mousse.

Foie de veau: calf's liver.

Foie gras d'oie (de canard): liver of fattened goose (duck).

Foin (dan le): (cooked in) hay.

Fond: cooking juices from meat, used to make sauces. Also, bottom.

Fond d'artichaut: heart and base of an artichoke.

Fondant: melting; refers to cooked, worked sugar that is flavored, then used for icing cakes. Also, the bittersweet chocolate high in cocoa butter used for making the shiniest chocolates. Also, puréed meat, fish, or vegetables shaped in croquettes.

Fondu(e): melted.

Fontainebleau: creamy white fresh dessert cheese from the Ile-de-France.

Forestière: garnish of wild mushrooms, bacon, and potatoes.

Fouace: a kind of brioche; specialty of the Auvergne.

Foudjou: a pungent goat-cheese spread, a blend of fresh and aged grated cheese mixed with salt, pepper, brandy, and garlic and cured in a crock; specialty of northern Provence.

Fougasse: a crusty lattice-like bread made of baguette dough or puff pastry often flavored with anchovies, black olives, herbs, spices, or onions; specialty of Provence and the Mediterranean. Also, a sweet bread of Provence flavored with orange-flower water, oil, and sometimes almonds.

Fouchtrou: Cow's milk cheese from the Auvergne, made when there is not enough milk to make an entire wheel of Cantal.

Four (au): (baked in an) oven.

Fourme d'Ambert: cylindrical blue-veined cow's-milk cheese, made in dairies around the town of Ambert in the Auvergne.

Fourré: stuffed or filled.

Foyot: classic sauce made of béarnaise with meat glaze.

Frais, fraîche: fresh or chilled.

Fraise: strawberry.

Fraise des bois: wild strawberry.

Framboise: raspberry.

Française, à la: classic garnish of peas with lettuce, small white onions, and parsley.

Frangipane: almond custard filling.

Frappé: usually refers to a drink served very cold or with ice, often shaken.

Frémi: quivering; often refers to barely cooked oysters.

Friandise: sweetmeat, petit four.

Fricadelle: fried minced meat patty.

Fricandeau: thinly sliced veal or a rump roast, braised with vegetables and white wine.

Fricassée: classically, ingredients braised in wine sauce or butter with cream added; currently denotes any mixture of ingredients--fish or meat--stewed ot sautéed.

Fricot (de veau): veal shoulder simmered in white wine with vegetables.

Frisé(e): curly; usually curly endive, the bitter salad green of the chicory family sold in enormous round heads.

Frit(e): fried.

Frite: French fry.

Fritons: coarse pork rillettes or a minced spread which includes organ meats.

Fritot: small organ meat fritter, where meat is partially cooked, then marinated in oil, lemon juice, and herbs, dipped in batter and fried just before serving; also can refer to any small fried piece of meat or fish.

Friture: fried food; also a preparation of small fried fish, usually white-bait or smelt.

Froid(e): cold.

Fromage: cheese.

blanc: a smooth low-fat cheese similar to cottage cheese.

d'alpage: cheese made in mountain pastures during the prime summer milking period.

Echourgnac: delicately flavored, ochre-skinned cheese made of cow's milk by the monks at the

Echourgnac monastery in the Dordogne.

fort: pungent cheese.

frais: smooth, runny fresh cheese, like cottage cheese.

Frais, bien égoutée: well-drained fresh cheese.

maigre: low-fat cheese.

Fromage de tête: headcheese, usually pork.

Fruit confit: whole fruit preserved in sugar.

Fruits de mer: seafood.

Fumé: smoked.

Fumet: fish stock.

G

Galantine: classical preparation of boned meat or whole poultry that is stuffed or rolled, cooked, then glazed with gelatin and served cold.

Galette: round flat pastry, pancake, or cake; can also refer to pancake-like savory preparations; in Brittany usually a savory buckwheat crêpe, known as blé noir.

Galette bressane, galette de Pérouges: cream and sugar tart from the Bresse area of the Rhône-Alpes.

Galette des rois: puff pastry filled with almond pastry cream, traditional Twelfth Night celebration cake.

Galinette: tub gurnard, Mediterranean fish of the mullet family.

Gamba: large prawn.

Ganache: classically a rich mixture of chocolate and crème fraïche used as a filling for cakes and chocolate truffles; currently may also include such flavorings as wild strawberries and cinnamon.

Garbure: a hearty stew that includes cabbage, beans, and salted or preserved duck, goose, turkey or pork; specialty of the southwest.

Gardiane: stew of beef or bull (toro) meat, with bacon, onions, garlic, and black olives; served with rice; specialty of the Camargue, in Provence.

Gargouillau: pear cake or tart; specialty of northem Auvergne.

Garni(e): garnished.

Garniture: garnish.

Gasconnade: roast leg of lamb with garlic and anchovies; specialty of the southwest.

Gaspacho: a cold soup, usually containing tomatoes, cucumber, onions, and sweet peppers; originally of Spanish origin.

Gâteau: cake.

basque: a chewy sweet cake filled with pastry cream or, historically, with black cherry jam; also called

pastiza; specialty of the Basque region.

breton: a rich round pound cake; specialty of Brittany.

opéra: classic almond sponge cake layered with coffee and chocolate butter cream and covered with a

sheet of chocolate; seen in every pastry shop window.

Saint-Honoré: classic cake of choux puffs dipped in caramel and set atop a cream-filled choux crown on a

pastry base.

Gaude: thick corn-flour porridge served hot, or cold and sliced, with cream.

Gaufre: waffle.

Gave: southwestern term for mountain stream; indicates fish from the streams of the area.

Gayette: small sausage patty made with pork liver and bacon, wrapped in caul fat and bacon.

Gelée: aspic.

Gendarme: salted and smoked herring.

Genièvere: juniper berry.

Génoise: sponge cake.

Gentiane: gentian; a liqueur made from this mountain flower.

Germiny: garnish of sorrel. Also, sorrel and cream soup.

Germon: albacore or long-fin tuna.

Gésier: gizzard.

Gibassier: round sweet bread from Provence, often flavored with lemon or orange zest, orange-flower water, and/or almonds. Also sometimes called fougasse or pompe à l'huile.

Gibelotte: fricassee of rabbit in red or white wine.

Gibier: game, sometimes designated as gibier à plume (feathered) or gibier à poil (furry).

Gigot (de pré salé): usually a leg of lamb (lamb grazed on the salt meadows along the Atlantic and Normandy coasts).

Gigot de mer: a preparation, usually of large pieces of monkfish (lotte) oven-roasted like a leg of lamb.

Gigue (de): haunch (of) certain game meats.

Gillardeau: prized oyster raised in Normandy and finished in claires, or fattening beds on the Atlantic coast.

Gingembre: ginger.

Girofle: clove.

Girolle: prized pale orange wild mushroom; also called chanterelle.

Givré; orange givré: frosted; orange sherbet served in its skin.

Glace: ice cream.

Glacé: iced, crystallized, or glazed.

Gnocchi: dumplings made of choux paste, potatoes, or semolina.

Goret: young pig.

Gougère: cheese-flavored choux pastry.

Goujon: small catfish; generic name for a number of small fish. Also, preparation in which the central part of a larger fish is coated with bread crumbs, then deep fried.

Goujonnette: generally used to describe a small piece of fish, such as sole, usually fried.

Gourmandise(s): weakness for sweet things; (sweetmeats or candies).

Gousse d'ail: clove of garlic.

Gousse de vanille: vanilla bean.

Goût: taste.

Goûter (le): to taste, to try; (children's afternoon snack).

Graine de moutarde: mustard seed.

Graisse: fat.

Graisserons: crisply fried pieces of duck or goose skin; cracklings.

Grand crème: large or double espresso with milk.

Grand cru: top-ranking wine.

Grand veneur: chief huntsman; usually a brown sauce for game, with red currant jelly.

Granité: a type of sherbet; a sweetened, flavored ice.

Grappe (de raisins): cluster; bunch (of grapes).

Gras (marché au): fatty; (market of fattened poultry and their livers).

Gras-double: tripe baked with onions and white wine.

Gratin: crust formed on top of a dish when browned in broiler or oven; also the dish in which such food is cooked.

Gratin dauphinoise: baked casserole of sliced potatoes, usually with cream, milk, and sometimes cheese and/or eggs.

Gratin savoyarde: baked casserole of sliced potatoes, usually with bouillon, cheese, and butter.

Gratiné(e): having a crusty, browned top.

Gratinée lyonnaise: bouillon flavored with port, garnished with beaten egg, topped with cheese, and browned under a broiler.

Grattons, grattelons: crisply fried pieces of pork, goose, or duck skin; cracklings.

Gratuit: free.

Grecque, à la: cooked in seasoned mixture of oil, lemon juice, and water; refers to cold vegetables, usually mushrooms.

Grelette, sauce: cold sauce with a base of whipped cream.

Grelot: small white bulb onion.

Grenade: pomegranate.

Grenaille: Refers to small, bite-size new potato of any variety.

Grenadin: small veal scallop.

Grenouille (cuisse de): frog (leg).

Gressini: breadsticks, seen along the Côte-d'Azur.

Gribiche, sauce: mayonnaise with capers, cornichons, hard-cooked eggs, and herbs.

Grillade: grilled meat.

Grillé(e): grilled.

Griotte: shiny slightly acidic, reddish black cherry.

Grisotte